From OSASA Newsletter October 2024:

Hugh Robertson, from SV Sea Change, was kind enough to share his experiences in and around the Port of East London with OSASA.

I realise that for most cruisers, East London is either a brief stopping place for recuperation and/or repairs after surviving the Wild Coast trip from Durban or Richards Bay, or might even be skipped if a weather window of NE wind allows. But for those who do stop, I urge you to explore my home town a little. Having grown up there from the age of three in 1958 till I went off to college in 1974, I have regularly returned for visits over the past five decades. I met a cruiser a while ago on his second circumnavigation who said that there was nothing to do there, which is sad!

I strongly encourage renting a car, and would hope that someone at the sailing club would be able to assist with transport to the nearby airport for pickup and drop off (I don’t know the situation with public transport there, but Uber is surely available too). I think the most important visit is to the East London Museum, where you can see the original specimen of the coelacanth, perhaps the most famous “living fossil” and the only living relative of the fish lineage that likely gave rise to tetrapods on land and ultimately to us, known as “old four legs”. The museum also has an excellent therapsid fossil skeleton, the basal lineage of mammals, and an ancient human footprint from sandstone deposits in nearby Nahoon Point. Plus lots more!

Speaking of which, before the museum (and be sure to check their hours), I recommend driving beyond there to Nahoon Beach where you will find a delightful cafe under the scented beach trees for breakfast, keeping a watchful eye on the vervet monkeys that frequent the area. Then a walk along the beach and lagoon plus a swim can be followed by a circuitous drive around the East London golf course (worthy of a round if that is your thing, the European Tour visits each southern summer). On the south side of Nahoon Point, there is a world-class right-hand surf break where national and international competitions are held when the surf is up (go here first in the very early morning if the surf forecast is good to see the locals perform). Here you will also find boardwalks and trails along the cliffs for great views. Don’t miss the little Surf Museum just up the road next to a cafe (for lunch?), which has the most extraordinary surfboard you will ever see on display (you will take a photo to show everyone else!).

That is a good itinerary for a day, but if you are there longer and wish to explore more, here are a few more ideas. On the West Bank further west from the airport you can find a real Formula One race track that actually had Formula One races back in the day. Local racing hero Jody Scheckter was the F1 champion in 1979 with Ferrari. There was a YouTube video about him recently. I am not sure one can still do this, but for many years you could drive the track yourself after it closed.

In the other direction going east there are several nice beaches including Gonubie and Cintsa. Even further you are into the old Transkei and can explore the Wild Coast, starting with Morgan’s Bay for a night. If you have had enough of coastal stuff, there is a region of hills inland called the Hogsback with holiday accommodation that is lovely for walks.

Finally, if kitesurfing is your thing, Nahoon River mouth and East Cintsa beach are great spots in NE wind, but most would rather head along if NE is forecast. Unfortunately there are few spots that work for the strong SW winds, but one is called Cefani, a little camping and chalet resort a little further east off the road to Cintsa. Manageable with a two-wheel-drive car, just park alongside the resort and walk to the beach. You likely will have the waves and wind to yourself. The spots at Kiteforum are an excellent guide to kite spots from here to Cape Town.