Dominica was not what was to be expected after the hurricane. Roseau has been nicely rebuilt but there are many abandoned building like on many of the other islands. We expected to see much worse conditions. In fact, it has the nicest Super Market we have seen on any of the islands. Pancho gave us a tour around the island and he was fantastic, Had a meal at the Drop Anchor and Guy made us feel like family. Would love to return to spend more time however Mr. Bean made it very uncomfortable for us.

If we return we will head to Portsmouth instead of returning here because of Mr. Bean. Also, his mooring ball rates are varied depending on his mood and he charged us 80 EC for two nights plus money for his gas, it was a first that we have ever seen. Doyle Guide book says you can anchor in that area but Mr. Bean said no, and when questioned about the price for mooring he said the guide books are wrong and that is the price. Too bad Mr. Bean can ruin the whole experience of the island.

We anchored at first at Roseau after our Atlantic crossing. We were very excited because we did not know exactly how we should register here and how it works.

With a boat we were very nicely received by “Mr.Bean”, he was a great help in everything. We were supported in mooring at the buoy, when clearing (he drove us there) while filling our Diselkanister and the delivery of the laundry and garbage. A great service. At any time we had the feeling that we were safe in the anchor bay. Our dinghy we always had outside our boat, it did not happen. Every day we were asked very unobtrusively if we would need something. Trips were also organized. All in all a great country, which deserves to be visited after the hurricane “Maria”. It is still a lot of broken, but the people are incredibly friendly and helpful. Our Next stop was in Portsmouth, also great here! We had excellent service and a super BBQ at the 31.12 of December 2018.

Dominica

Alexis from PAYS came in his boat when we were about 40 minutes out. He was actually on his way somewhere, he asked if we would like a mooring and said he’d be back by the time we got to Portsmouth – and he was.
We were safely guided to a buoy. He took my husband to Customs for 40 EC, you can clear in and out of Customs at the same time on Dominica and it only costs 10EC.
He then told us about the tours he can arrange. We opted for the Indian River Cruise – cost was 25 US pp or 140 EC pp.
The hurricane has destroyed lots of the trees on the river and they have fallen, blocking the route. So they have removed them for about a mile,.so they can take people up and down the river. There’s a bar at the end, so be sure to take some cash. No overhanging trees now so no shelter from the sun.

There is a market near the main jetty on Saturday mornings.

Mooring was 25EC a night, Sunday BBQ at PAYS 50EC each (this is an all you can eat and drink – rum punch only!). Beware of the rum punch.

Smithy’s bar is on the right-hand side walking from the PAYS dinghy dock. Nice food and reasonably priced.

There was a young lady at Smithy’s who was asking for toys to be donated for the Children’s Xmas party in Dec 2018. So if anyone plans to go there before Xmas – take some toys.

We stayed in Dominica in January 2018.
There is much devastation around the island: trees are ripped bare and many roofs are (partly) missing. Construction and repairs are in full progress, and the trees have new leaves on them already. People are very friendly and helpful. I think the best thing to do right now is to spend some money (go to a cafe, restaurant, get a mooring, do a tour) and spread the word about lovely Dominica.

Beware of very strong gusts of wind along the west coast, we saw gusts up to 40 knots and other parts with no wind at all.

ROSEAU

The Anchorage hotel is abandoned and the ‘conspicuous white roof’ described on Navionics is missing.
The moorings in the north of the bay belong to Markus and the moorings in the south to Seacat. Because of some initial confusion we accidentally took a Seacat mooring – after reading the messages here on Noonsite we wanted to moor with Markus. Markus wasn’t on VHF 16, Seacat was. The moorings were both 40 EC.

Seacat doesn’t have tenders or a dock, so you have to take your dinghy onto the stony beach to pay them and to get to town. Markus uses the dock of an abandoned building, which we also used for our dinghy. The middle part of the dock is gone so you have to walk along narrow concrete beams to get to land. You have to pass through the abandoned building, which we did, also at night. It was not a problem, but we felt a bit insecure at first. We paid Markus 10 EC to watch our boat and gave him a couple of packs of cigarettes, which he was very happy with.
The cruise dock is being used again. We witnessed the first cruise ship dock since the hurricane. The whole town was working and rushing to make everything look fine for the tourists. The hotels near the cruise ship dock are in the final stages of being repaired and the central market place has just opened up again.

Customs and immigration are in the cruise ship terminal. We paid 85 EC for the formalities (2 persons, including a cruising permit). It is possible to check in and out at the same time if you stay less than a week.
Seacat offers tours, but if you’re walking along the road you get plenty of other offers for tours as well. The best offer we got was 100 EC for the waterfalls (for two persons). You can also take a local bus up to Wotton Waven, but they don’t run on Sundays.

PORTSMOUTH

There is a big anchorage here, but we decided to spend some money on a mooring. PAYS offers the moorings for 25 EC a night.
We can really recommend doing an Indian River tour with Eddison. Our guide was called Daniel and we loved his early-morning tour. They are on channel 16 and 8 or can be reached on +1 767 225 3626.
It is amazing to hear first-hand stories about the hurricane from the tour guides and very inspiring to hear how the country is getting back on its feet.

If heading to Dominica and wondering what the locals really need at this time (that takes up little space on board) consider:
1. New underwear (for people of all ages and sizes)
2. Shoes/slippers
3. Basic first aid supplies (dressings, antiseptic products, tape, band-aids, cough and cold remedies).
Reported by Ken Goodings on the Dominica Cruisers Facebook Page.

Posted on Dominica Cruisers Facebook Page

Although the situation continues to rapidly change for the better, at present visiting cruisers should know:
1. Garbage collection has resumed;
2. Digital, Lime, and Flow offices are open;
3. Although the water supply at the Cabrits cruise ship dock is gone (along with the dock), clean, safe water is available at the public taps along the street and at the PAYS water buoy in the bay;
4. Propane bottles can again be filled in Roseau by PAYS during tours and with special or group arrangements;
5. Although the PAYS office and pavilion is missing some of its roofs, the dock is perfectly reassembled, and the ability to host barbecues has been proven by hosting them for the crews of some of the relief ships;
6. Although the Purple Turtle is presently not operating, happily Ray’s Roti Shop, Smithies, Madiba, and some other cruisers’ favourite restaurants are back to normal;
7. The bank and the Credit Union are operating completely with functioning ATM machines;
8. Bakeries are running;
9. Although the MiniCash grocery is still not functioning, Northern Food Supply opened this week and the Picard IGA (near the medical school) is open with limited but growing supplies;
10. The moorings are being reassembled for the season;
11. Yacht security is set to resume with no damage to the security boat.
12. Indian River Tour, Milton Falls, Trafalga Falls, Red Rocks, Cold Volcano, and a growing number of other attractions are open, and one can always take a Post-Maria Tour.
The PAYS organization members are anxious to serve you all this season and hope you will visit.

Reported on Martinique Cruisers facebook group:
Dominica is good for receiving visitors. Due to breaking down I have been in Prince Rupert bay for 2 weeks. Every night there are now 6 to 10 boats anchored or moored. Dominica needs your help to get back to somewhat of a normal life. Come spend some time and money here. Take a tour, buy a beer.

There are two bakeries open in Portsmouth 6 days a week. Help this wonderful island with your support. And yes pack a few extras to give away. Tarpaulins are still needed. They don’t last long in the sun. And two months on there are still people living in badly damaged houses. So yes please stop in on your way north or south. Customs and immigration and the PAYS guys are all operating.

Is it as safe as any other island. In Portsmouth, there are shops open. They don’t have vast stores but most cruisers carry their own stores. As I said 2 bakery’s working. 6 days a week. PAYS guys who look after the moorings and the needs or cruisers are active. Gasoline stations – 2 are open. Some bars are even open. Every day a few more houses get connected to the grid.

It will be a long recovery. Come see for yourself. Help in the recovery any way you can. Nature is coming back as best it can. Dominica will be beautiful again. If nothing else come and see what a hurricane can do to an island. The power must have been horrifying and terrifying to witness.
Please don’t by-pass Portsmouth. Drop in, stay a few days and post your views too.

During our stay on March 10, 2017, an old neglected coaster sank in Prince Rupert Bay. It is just under the surface. Coordinates 15 34 66N, 61 27 75W. We left Rupert Bay on the 11th, the danger was not yet marked by then.

We stay in Dominica in May 2016, half of the time in Portsmouth, half of it in Roseau. We loved it: Very respectful boat boys, very helpful and kind, especially with the kids. The same applies to the local population in Portsmouth and surrounding villages: Always a smile and a few nice words.

People are generous, we received a lot of fruits or veggies when hiking. We always felt safe, even in Roseau, despite there are a few beggers. The island is very clean, no litter (there has been a lot of education made on that matter lately). Overall, we found people very nice and respectful, probably due to the influence of the rastafarism culture, very present over there.

The Islanders still need help following tropical storm Erika that devastated the island in 2015. If planning on visiting Dominica, read the news item adjacent re. items that are still urgently needed (including diapers/nappies for children, school items, Christmas toys, female products/pads, and other basics.

No one likes to hear arguments but arguments are what they are until being resolved. I believe Roseau is not immune from arguments such as any capital city or countryside in the World. Why is someone posting on Noonsite about two guys arguing is beyond me. Litter is an issue for me because I love a clean place. We are resolving it till there are no paper or plastics on our beaches and road drains. Still not worthy for Noonsite as we are not immune to litter.

Posted on behalf of Vivianne Perazelli (Canada)
Hi, I finally decided to send you an update on this paradise island, as they like to call it here. We arrived here 6 weeks ago and due to our broke down engine, we are here for a while. On a morning in Roseau ( Newtown), we just about had enough witnessing to constant battles between the “canoe boys”. It is not fun to hear …I will shoot you-you f….. For us, it’s the last time we come here. The streets are filthy, garbage everywhere, taxi drivers that never leave you alone. Not fun !!!