Mediterranean Cruising: How a Mixed-Nationality Couple Cope with Bureaucracy

Cruising the Med as Mixed-Nationality Sailors

We are a mixed-nationality crew (French and American) aboard a US-flagged sailing catamaran currently cruising the Mediterranean. Since 2023, we have sailed from Türkiye to Greece, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and now Italy.

Because nationality, residency status and vessel registration can significantly affect cruising procedures, it may be helpful to briefly explain our particular circumstances before describing our experience.

I am a French citizen and my husband is an American citizen. Our vessel is US-flagged and not EU VAT paid. Our legal residence, banking and tax obligations are all based in the United States.

Dealing with Bureaucracy

Along the way, we have dealt with our fair share of bureaucracy, made slightly more complicated by the fact that we are a multinational crew on a US-flagged vessel. I wanted to share our recent experiences in the hope that they may help other cruisers planning similar routes.

Our catamaran spent the winter in Preveza Marina, Greece. We placed the vessel into bond, which paused our 18-month Temporary Admission clock and allowed us to avoid paying the monthly ETEPAI cruising tax while the boat was laid up.

Because I hold a French passport, my non-EU spouse is entitled to remain in the Schengen Area for longer than 90 days provided we are travelling together and comply with the applicable residency requirements. After researching the rules for extended stays in Greece, we learned that he needed to obtain a residence card as a family member of an EU citizen. To do that, I first obtained the required registration certificate through the local authorities.

With both our immigration status and our boat’s Temporary Admission status properly addressed, we paid the ETEPAI on a monthly basis while cruising. We submitted the application online during the final week of each month and paid using our Wise card.

While researching the requirements for obtaining and maintaining a Transit Log in Greece, we spent considerable time reviewing the AADE guidance, particularly the section titled “Special Procedure for Temporary Importation of Private Pleasure Boats in Greece.”

Words of Advice for Non-EU Boat Owners

We noticed some changes in the wording of the guidance over the past year. For example, “non-EU country” became “third country,” “habitual residence” became “habitual abode,” and references to where a person “lives” were changed to where a person “resides.”

One area that stood out to us was the discussion surrounding habitual residence and the 185-day rule. Our understanding of the guidance was that spending more than 185 days per year within the EU could potentially lead authorities to consider someone a habitual resident in the EU, which could affect eligibility for Temporary Admission and related cruising documentation in Greece.

Interpretations can Vary

This is an area that non-EU boat owners should research carefully, particularly if they spend extended periods cruising within the EU. During our travels, we learned that interpretations can vary and that different officials may focus on different aspects of a cruiser’s circumstances. Because of this, we found it extremely valuable to seek professional guidance when dealing with Temporary Admission matters in Greece. The issue was significant enough that it influenced our cruising plans and where we chose to spend portions of the year, as we wanted to ensure we remained compliant with the requirements as they were explained to us.

While many cruisers are familiar with the broader EU concept of demonstrating ties to a non-EU country, such as maintaining a primary residence, banking, and tax obligations outside the EU, our experience suggested that Greek authorities may place particular emphasis on physical presence within the EU when assessing Temporary Admission eligibility. For that reason, anyone planning extended stays in Greece should take the time to fully understand the current rules and how they apply to their specific situation.

Leaving Greece

Prior to leaving the marina at the end of our winter contract, we collected our vessel registration documents from the Port Police (Port Authority / Hellenic Coast Guard) and obtained a Transit Log through Customs. We had boarding passes and documentation showing time spent in non-EU countries ready to present if required, although our agent was not asked to provide them. Because of the importance placed on Temporary Admission eligibility and habitual residence considerations, we carefully documented our time spent outside the EU and planned our winter accordingly.

We checked out of Greece this spring in Corfu. We began the process at the Port Police, who stamped our Transit Log and crew list and provided a document that needed to be stamped by both Customs and Passport Control.

We then proceeded to Customs, where we surrendered our Transit Log. Customs stamped the document and directed us to Passport Control. The officer asked whether we were married and after confirming that we were, they reviewed our passports. My non-EU spouse’s stay in the Schengen Area beyond 90 days was accepted based on our circumstances and they took his photograph and fingerprints. Once Passport Control had stamped the document, we returned to the Port Police, presented the completed paperwork, paid a €5 fee and we were cleared to depart.

Arriving into Albania…

Our next stop was Sarandë, Albania. Prior to our arrival, our agent requested copies of our boat registration, insurance documents and passports via WhatsApp. When we arrived, she only needed our passports and handled all entry formalities on our behalf. She did the same when we departed.

She provided us with copies of both our entry and exit paperwork, including a crew list, and stressed the importance of retaining these documents. She explained that they could be useful in the future if questions ever arose regarding our Temporary Admission timeline.

…and onto Italy

From Albania, we sailed to Santa Maria di Leuca in southern Italy.

I was initially under the impression that we would be able to complete all entry formalities there, but that turned out not to be entirely correct. Had we sailed directly from Greece to Italy, our understanding is that we would likely only have needed to complete the normal Costituto d’Arrivo procedure with the Guardia Costiera. However, because we had exited the EU through Albania and were re-entering the EU in Italy, my non-EU spouse’s passport required a Schengen entry stamp.

The Guardia Costiera provided us with the contact information for the Commissariato di Pubblica Sicurezza in Taurisano. After several conversations throughout the afternoon, they advised that officers would drive approximately 25 kilometres from Taurisano to Santa Maria di Leuca to process the passport formalities with us.

This was completely unexpected and we were genuinely impressed by the level of assistance.

At their request, we met the officers from the Polizia di Stato at the local Guardia di Finanza office at 21:00. As there is no local Polizia di Stato office in Santa Maria di Leuca, they travelled from Taurisano to meet us at the port. They stamped my non-EU spouse’s passport, reviewed my French passport and confirmed that he was legally entitled to remain in the Schengen Area beyond 90 days as my spouse.

The following morning, we returned to the Guardia Costiera and completed our Costituto d’Arrivo.

There were no fees charged for our entry into Italy.

Personal Experience and Lessons Learned

Everything described in this report reflects our personal experience and should not be considered official guidance. Procedures can change and may differ depending on nationality, residency status, vessel registration, and the officials involved.

Our biggest lesson was to keep copies of every customs, immigration, transit log and crew list document we received, even after leaving a country. Several officials along the way asked questions relating to previous entries and exits and having a well-organized folder of paperwork made the process much easier.

We hope our experience helps other cruisers planning similar routes around the Mediterranean.

Claudine, Donovan and Rose
SV Okaliptus

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About the Authors

Claudine and Donovan are a French-American cruising couple currently sailing the Mediterranean aboard their 44-foot catamaran, Okaliptus, along with their Maltipoo first mate, Rose.

Before retiring in their early 50s, they spent more than 17 years working catastrophe claims across the United States. The job had them living out of hotels for the majority of the year while responding to natural disasters. It also meant spending a lot of time together in small spaces, which turned out to be surprisingly good preparation for living aboard a boat full-time.

Both are certified divers, lovers of the sea, and share a passion for travel, so they eventually decided that selling their home, quitting their jobs, and moving aboard was the most sensible thing to do. They also discovered that carrying their home with them like turtles wherever they go is far easier than packing and unpacking suitcases every few days.

Their sailing journey began on a modest Catalina 22 in Hilton Head, South Carolina, before eventually leading them to Türkiye, where they purchased Okaliptus and set off to explore the Mediterranean. Since then, they have cruised the west coast of Türkiye, much of Greece, Albania, Montenegro, Croatia and have recently arrived in Italy, where they plan to continue exploring for the next few years.

Claudine is fluent in English, French, and Spanish and has made determined attempts to learn Turkish, Greek, German, and now Italian since moving aboard. Unfortunately, Turkish and Greek seem to be winning.

Follow their journey, on their YouTube channel, Sailing Okaliptus, where they share their experiences cruising the Mediterranean aboard our catamaran.

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