Indian Ocean, Cocos Keeling Islands: A Challenging Environment
British sailor Mike Peckham is sailing solo around the world, following competitors in the Mini Globe Race (MGR 580). Having just left the Cocos Keeling Islands in the Indian Ocean to follow the race to their next stop of Mauritius, Mike sent an update on his few days spent at Direction Island, the only anchorage at this remote outpost.
Published 1 month ago
Following the MGR580s
I am sailing solo round this beautiful world at the age of 72 having set off from the UK in June 2024. Currently I am accompanying the little 19ft Mini Globe Race 580 boats as they race around the world. These 19ft plywood shoeboxes – which is how I describe them – are designed for this race and so far have met all the challenges.
The purpose of this report is to alert Noonsite’s readers and members to some of the challenges and problems that I encountered when visiting the Cocos Keeling Islands.
Challenges Faced
- Ferries: There is a limited ferry timetable from Direction Island to Home island – it operates two days per week. Unfortunately on two consecutive Thursdays while I was there, the ferry was cancelled at the last minute, sighting mechanical issues. It seems rather questionable to have consecutive breakdowns affecting the same day of their timetable? (Noonsite note: Visiting vessels are required to enter and depart the anchorage at Direction Island only and are prohibited from transiting the lagoon, to the Home Island or West Island wharf facilities. The only way to move around between the islands is to use the ferry services, a local water taxi or your own dinghy if it is big and solid enough. See the Direction Island page for more information.)
- Fuel: You can no longer get any fuel from Home Island. The additional cost to arrange a water taxi is eye-wateringly expensive at $200 per hour + the cost of the fuel. Being an old boy that back in the 1970s could buy four gallons of petrol for £1, the example I cite is in pounds sterling; £500 for 30 imperial gallons which I personally think is expensive!
- Mooring Fees: You still have to go to Home Island to pay your mooring dues, so what with the unreliability of the ferry from Direction island one needs to have a decent tender – a minimum of 10ft and a decent outboard. Even then you will need to choose your timing when transiting the 1.5 miles from Direction Island to Home Island. I strongly suggest one takes flares and VHF radio and if at all possible go in a convoy for safety. Of course you will need to wear a jacket and life vest for your personal safety.
Readers need to understand it is very challenging to stop over at Cocos Keeling and it appears that any rules in place are subject to frequent change, so use your imagination and make your own decision.
It’s Always Windy
The elements at Cocos Keeling present a challenge, it’s always windy with the trades and although the reef takes away the vast majority of the big swell, you still have quite along fetch from the reef to the Direction Island anchorage.
I was looking forward to visiting what are beautiful islands, but because of the additional challenges, I can’t depart quick enough.
Please note that this is written from my personal experience and others may have had a totally different experience.
Mike Peckham
SV White Malkin
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Related to following destinations: Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling, Direction Island (South Keeling), Flying Fish Cove, Home Island, West Island
Related to the following Cruising Resources: Circumnavigation, Circumnavigation, Cruising Information, Indian Ocean, Planning and Preparation, Routing, Travel Information, World Regions Information
Feedback received from WCC Yellow Shirts and World Rally Boats on their stopover in September/October 2025:
The Ferry Service – When we were there we didn’t have or hear of any issues with the ferry, we took it from West to Home Island and back to West Island and quite a few participants took it between Direction and Home/West Island without any problems. It’s cheap particularly for Cocos and compared with hiring a water taxi, air-conditioned and convenient.
The Water Taxi costs $100 pp each way between Home Island and Direction Island, regardless of how many people go in one trip. It’s a tiny motor boat which would fit a maximum of three to four people and can be a wet and uncomfortable ride.
Fuel wasn’t available on Home Island – jerry cans had to be taken over to West Island and then Tony from Salty’s Café facilitated a water taxi to bring them back as full jerry cans are not allowed on the ferry.
Local activities and events may affect the opening hours of shops on Home Island so check with the locals if you can.
Rachael
World Cruising Club
Mike, I am sorry that you have not enjoyed your stay in Cocos Keeling. I visted Cocos Keeling in October 2022 whilst on the Oyster World Rally. It was a joy to anchor in Direction Bay with 20 other Oysters. It is a lttle distance to Home Island but in a reasonable tender and with some patience on the time it akes then it is well worth the visit. The welcome of the inhabitants was very warm. Yes, things are expensive, but ne does need to remember that Cocos Keeling is very remote and the cost of getting supplies there is high. You have the benefit of remoteness and the desert island feel but it is a privilege to be able to visit such islands.
Finally, I admire you for sailng aorund the world single handed and hope you enjoy fair winds