The Allure of a French Polynesian Sailing Adventure

The appeal of sailing in French Polynesia is immediate and undeniable. The sheer natural beauty of the place is, for many, the primary draw. Imagine waking up to the iconic silhouette of Bora Bora’s Mount Otemanu, or anchoring in a remote Tuamotu atoll where the water is so clear you can see your anchor chain on the sandy bottom 60 feet below. These islands are not just beautiful; they are alive with a vibrant marine ecosystem.

The five main archipelagos offer a distinct sailing experience. For many trans-Pacific sailors, the Marquesas Islands serve as the first point of entry, greeting them with a dramatic, rugged landscape of soaring volcanic cliffs.

Moving westward, cruisers encounter the stark contrast of the Tuamotu Archipelago, a vast collection of over 75 low-lying coral atolls and a world-class playground for divers and snorkelers.

Further west, the Society Islands – the most well-known of the groups – offer a transition to civilization, featuring iconic destinations like Tahiti and Bora Bora. To the south, the Austral Islands are cooler and known for their agricultural products, though their exposure to extreme weather makes for more challenging sailing. Finally, the remote Gambier Islands, located to the southeast, consist of a small cluster of volcanic high islands renowned for their pearl farming and deep religious heritage.

The Pros of Sailing in French Polynesia

Breathtaking Scenery:

French Polynesia is the stuff of postcards. The Society Islands, with their dramatic volcanic mountains and calm, sheltered lagoons, provide a stunning backdrop for any sail. The Tuamotu and Gambier archipelagos offer a different but equally captivating experience with their low-lying coral atolls and vibrant reef systems.

Unique and Diverse Archipelagos:

The five main archipelagos offer a distinct sailing experience. You can spend months exploring one group alone and still feel like you’ve only scratched the surface. The Societies are known for their accessibility and iconic beauty, the Tuamotus for their world-class diving and the Marquesas for their rugged, wild landscapes.

Friendly and Welcoming Culture:

Polynesian culture is deeply rooted in hospitality and a strong connection to the sea. Visitors are often met with genuine warmth and generosity. The Heiva festival, a major cultural celebration in July, is a spectacular display of traditional dance, music, and sports that every sailor should try to experience.

Vast and Unspoiled Territory:

French Polynesia is a large, sparsely populated region. This means that even in the more popular areas, it is possible to find secluded anchorages and private beaches. For those seeking true solitude and a deep connection with nature, the more remote archipelagos offer an unparalleled sense of adventure.

Relatively Safe Cruising:

Compared to some other global cruising destinations, French Polynesia is known for being very safe. Crime, particularly against sailors, is extremely rare, allowing you to relax and enjoy the environment without constant worry.

Consistent Trade Winds:

For much of the year, the trade winds blow steadily from the southeast, providing ideal conditions for downwind sailing between the islands. This makes for exhilarating and relatively straightforward passages.

The Realities and Challenges of Cruising in Paradise

While the dream of sailing in French Polynesia is intoxicating, a sailor must be prepared for the realities of cruising in such a remote and unique environment. This is not the Caribbean; the distances are vast, the logistics can be complex and the costs can add up quickly.

The Cons of Sailing in French Polynesia

Vast Distances:

The archipelagos of French Polynesia are spread out over a massive area of the Pacific Ocean. The passage from the Marquesas to the Society Islands, for example, is several hundred nautical miles and can take many days. This requires a functional boat, a prepared crew and the ability to accurately read weather forecasts.

Difficult Logistics and High Costs:

French Polynesia is an expensive place to live and sail. Groceries, fuel, and boat parts are all significantly more costly than in many other parts of the world. Getting parts shipped in is a long, expensive, and sometimes frustrating process due to customs regulations. This means a well-stocked boat with plenty of spare parts is essential.

Navigation and Anchoring Challenges:

The stunning coral reefs that create the beautiful lagoons are also a major hazard. Navigation requires constant vigilance, especially when entering and exiting the passes, which can have strong currents and bommies that reach just below the surface. Anchoring is a skill unto itself, as you must carefully place your anchor in a sandy patch to avoid damaging the delicate coral heads.

Limited Services and Infrastructure:

While the main hubs like Tahiti and Raiatea have marinas and some repair services, the more remote islands have very little. There are no chandleries in the Tuamotus, for instance. This necessitates a high degree of self-sufficiency. Thankfully, it is possible to receive parts and groceries by air.

The “Cruiser’s Time Limit”:

Provided sailors apply for a long-stay visa in advance, French Polynesia offers an initial one-year visa for crew and two years for a private vessel. Renewing the visa for a second year is a straightforward process. If you plan to stay two years, try to arrive in French Polynesia after May 1st, or you will have to check out prior to the end of cyclone season, leaving you in limbo. Resist the restlessness of the sailors flying through in three months, as you will regret missing out on fully exploring the region.

Cyclone Season:

The official cyclone season runs from November to April, bringing the risk of storms and high winds. While French Polynesia is generally considered to be outside the main cyclone belt, tropical depressions can and do form, requiring careful weather monitoring and planning.

Potential Anchoring Limitations:

The Polynesian Maritime Affairs Directorate (DPAM) has launched a new online reservation system called “Escales” to manage recreational boats. The program, currently in a pilot phase, aims to protect fragile marine ecosystems by placing environmentally friendly moorings in popular spots like Fakarava and Moorea.

The official policy is that sailors must register their boats online to eventually reserve a spot and follow stay limits. However, in reality, the program is currently “in theory only” as there is no active monitoring or enforcement of the rules. The long-term goal is to prevent the degradation of seabeds and better manage maritime traffic, while providing support and updated information to sailors.

Essential Things Not to Miss

Beyond the sailing itself, French Polynesia offers a wealth of experiences that a visiting sailor should not pass up. These are a few of the highlights, but this list is just the tip of the iceberg; beautiful places and experiences await you in every bay of every island.

For the Marquesas Islands

Hiva Oa’s Ancient Tiki: The Marquesas are known for their wild, rugged beauty and rich history. On Hiva Oa, you can visit ancient tiki statues, some of the largest in Polynesia and explore the dense, green valleys.

Fatu Hiva’s Bay of Virgins: The dramatic, fjord-like entrance to the Bay of Virgins on Fatu Hiva is a sight to behold. The island is also famous for its traditional art, including intricate wood carvings and tapa cloth.

For the Tuamotu Archipelago

Tahanea’s Nature: A pristine and uninhabited atoll, renowned among sailors and divers for its untouched natural beauty. A designated nature reserve, it offers a true escape from civilization with no permanent residents, stores, or cell service. The atoll is known for its healthy reefs and a vibrant, diverse marine ecosystem, making its three passes a spectacular destination for drift snorkeling and diving.

Fakarava’s Diving: A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Fakarava is a diver’s and snorkeler’s paradise. Its famous passes are home to a staggering array of marine life, including a “wall of sharks.” The diving here is considered world-class.

Fakarava’s Pink Sands: During safety stops, visit the famous pink sand beaches, which are formed by tiny pieces of red and pink coral.

Tikehau’s Garden of Eden: Nestled on a secluded motu in the Tikehau atoll, the “Garden of Eden” is a fascinating and unexpected sight. This organic farm, established by a small religious community, stands as a testament to self-sufficiency and perseverance. Visitors are welcomed to tour the property, witness their innovative farming techniques and even purchase some of their homegrown produce, offering a unique and rewarding glimpse into a different way of life in this remote part of the Tuamotus.

For the Society Islands

Bora Bora’s Lagoon: While it can be crowded, the iconic turquoise lagoon of Bora Bora is a must-see. Snorkel with manta rays, fevers of eagle rays, and blacktip sharks, and enjoy the dramatic views of the volcanic peaks from the water. If you are a WWII history buff, you will love visiting the multiple cannon sites installed by the U.S. Military in Operation Bobcat.

Raiatea’s Sacred Heritage: Known as the “Sacred Island,” Raiatea is the spiritual heart of Polynesia. Visit Marae Taputapuatatea, a UNESCO World Heritage site and an ancient temple complex that was a center for religious and political life. This year we had the privilege of attending the 50th anniversary of the arrival of the Hokulea, the vessel that travels all over the South Pacific by ancient navigation techniques.

Taha’a, the “Vanilla Island”: Taha’a shares a lagoon with Raiatea and is famous for its fragrant vanilla plantations. Take a tour to learn about the painstaking process of hand-pollinating the orchids and buy some of the world’s finest vanilla.

Moorea’s Dramatic Landscape: Just a short sail from Tahiti, Moorea boasts dramatic peaks, lush valleys, and stunning bays. Rent bikes and cycle the island, or complete the treks to Belvedere, Magic Mountain, and various other trails.

The Heiva Festival: If your timing is right (July), immerse yourself in the Heiva I Tahiti or the smaller Heiva festivals on the other islands. This is a spectacular celebration of Polynesian culture, with traditional dance competitions, fire dancing, and ancient and modern sporting events.

Whale Season: Every year from July to November, humpback whales journey to the warm waters of French Polynesia to breed and give birth. Because new regulations have reduced the number of tour boats and swimmers allowed in the water, it’s crucial to book your reservation in advance.

Insider Tips for Sailing in French Polynesia

After 18 months of sailing in French Polynesia, we’ve gathered a few key insights that made our experience truly unforgettable.

Secure a Long-Term Visa: Every sailor we met with a three-month visa regretted having to rush through this incredible country. Obtaining a long-term visa (of one year) will allow you to explore at a more relaxed pace and truly immerse yourself in the culture.

Provision Extensively Before You Cross: French Polynesia is significantly more expensive than many other destinations. Stocking up on non-perishable goods and essential provisions before your crossing will save you a considerable amount of money and give you peace of mind (Use a food saver to preserve grains, beans, rice, and pasta).

Haul Out Before You Arrive: Hauling out for boat maintenance is particularly expensive in French Polynesia. If possible, complete any major maintenance or bottom painting before you enter the country to avoid the high costs.

Bring Crucial Spare Parts: Shipping parts to French Polynesia can be a slow, expensive, and complicated process. We recommend bringing essential spares for your watermaker, engines, and other critical systems to ensure you’re self-sufficient.

Invest in Bicycles: Cycling is one of the best ways to explore the islands. Traveling slowly allows you to see more, interact with locals, and experience the relaxed pace of island life.

Get a Vini e-SIM Card: A Vini Surf-n-Go e-SIM card is an essential tool for navigation and communication. It provides reliable access to Google Maps, NoForeignLand, and other crucial apps while exploring each island.

Leverage Cruising Resources:

NoForeignLand: This app is an invaluable resource for finding anchorage information and tips from other cruisers.

Join WhatsApp Group Forums: In addition to NoForeignLand, join the specific WhatsApp groups for French Polynesia and each island group. They provide real-time information, local tips, and can be a great way to connect with other sailors.

Plan Around Major Events: Try to time your visit to align with key cultural events. Whale season (typically July-November) in Moorea and Tahiti and the annual Heiva festival (July) are not to be missed.

Embrace a Slow Pace: The prevailing easterly winds make sailing back to island groups challenging. By exploring slowly and thoroughly, you can avoid backtracking and have a much richer and more fulfilling experience.

The Final Verdict

Sailing in French Polynesia is not a casual vacation; it is an expedition. It requires careful planning, a well-prepared vessel, and a budget to match. However, for those who are willing to embrace the challenges, the rewards are immeasurable. The chance to immerse yourself in a culture deeply connected to the sea, to explore remote and pristine islands, and to witness some of the most spectacular natural beauty on Earth makes it a sailing adventure of a lifetime. The pros of a French Polynesian sailing trip far outweigh the cons, and for those who make the journey, the memories created will last forever.

Eileen Councill
SV Blown Away

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About the Authors

Eileen and her husband Brown have lived onboard their Leopard 44 Catamaran, Blown Away, since November 2020. They bought their boat sight unseen in St. Lucia, having never sailed before. Their first four years consisted of traveling the Caribbean, Bahamas, East Coast, and then to Guatemala, Colombia, and Panama. They transited the Panama Canal in January 2024 and crossed the Pacific Ocean to French Polynesia in March 2024. Their plan is to remain in the land of cheese and wine until April 2026.

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Other Reports by Eileen

• French Polynesia:  Experience the Long Stay Visa (CDS) Application Process

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