Central America: Covid19 Field Report

This season SY Scraatch has sailed from Rio Dulce to Isla Mujeres, Grand Cayman, Providencia and then a Panama Canal Transit. They left Panama before the lockdown, transited Costa Rica during partial lockdown and have now arrived in Mexico for a pause.

Published 4 years ago

Marina Chiapas, Mexico

We arrived in Marina Chiapas, Mexico, on 4 April, 2020.

Panama:

Panama is not now issuing exit Zarpes. A group of North American boats are reportedly attempting to negotiate a no Zarpe arrival in Mexico. It seems at present that this may happen subject to a to-be-decided ‘fine’.

Costa Rica:

Costa Rica is largely in shutdown. All national parks and most hotels are closed. Marinas are open for fuel, including the habit of charging for dock use as well as the fuel.

In Playa Coco (our departure point from Costa Rica), the Port Captain initially claimed to be closed, but when asked for an exit Zarpe operated through a window. (Process is Port Captain – Aduana at airport by taxi $50 – Bank to pay port fee $50 – Immigration – Port Captain – Zarpe.)

We left to motor to Bahia St. Elena to test/wait on the Papagayo wind. This is in a national park and within an hour we were fully inspected by a coast guard launch, far more accommodating when they found that we had a Zarpe and were genuine. The Papagayo was a pussy at 25 knot max and largely behind, bonus was sighting two whales!

We by-passed Nicaragua, El Salvador and Guatamala. Commercial port traffic seemed normal.

Mexico:

Mexico and Marina Chiapas are open. Our arrival was after dark and nobody answered the VHF, but on arrival in the Marina we were spotted by the 24 hour dock staff and helped to berth. We were visited within an hour by a patrol boat with customs, port and navy officials on board – but not the usual dog.

In the Marina office, Rolf and ‘Memo’ are English speaking and helpful. The shop and restaurant are open. The manager, Guillermo, drove us to all the necessary offices and arranged a taxi for the longer distance for a 10 year Temporary Import Permit. This is simply to help, free of charge, and not as an agent. (Process was immigration $60 for 2, port fee $6, Port Captain $40 based on tonnage, TIP $60 for 10 years). A yacht is treated as a vehicle like a car. The TIP was made at the Guatamala border which is closed and spookily quiet, although one backpacking Ukrainian did manage to walk over.

There are currently about six sail boats here with cruisers on board and one superyacht sitting things out.

Chiapas state and the city of Tapachula has few tourists, is largely agricultural and is in the very early stages of virus alert. It is felt that the virus has not arrived yet. Official offices have posters and are nominally distancing and using token hand gel, but are open and fully operating. Town life seems normal apart from the shopping mall closing around dusk. We are expecting national government restrictions now for Holy Week.

Cruisers here are in wait-and-see mode. Most are thinking of returning to the States or in one case Canada direct – 7 weeks! Others plan to move north to haul out points. Scraatch is considering Alaska via Hawaii. One boat hauled out here yesterday and the crew are hoping to get home to Sweden.

We sailors are such a small community, and possibly the most naturally self-isolating that we are ignored and getting hit by the spin offs from the general panic.

Kitty and Brian
SY Scraatch

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Please share your current experience with COVID-19 restrictions and how it has affected your cruising plans. Contact Sue at [email protected] with your field report.

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The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising Club.

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