Grise Fiord lies 1,160 km (720 mi) north of the Arctic Circle and is the northern-most civilian settlement in Canada. 

Blogpost – September 11th, 2021

Once Léonie and Eric left for Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon, just in time for school and a new position (new research station), we remained two of us, Louis Wilmote and I, onboard Vagabond, for the two following weeks. Louis, before landing in Grise Fiord, made a stop in Arctic Bay in order to dive and recover most of the coralline samples and about 10 sensors waiting since last year.  Successful job after two stops, on his way to and back from Grise Fiord!

Very busy fortnight: a lot of maintenance, including sessions in the engine room… at anchor in front of town or sheltered behind small islands not far from Grise Fiord, before beaching Vagabond. Finally everything is ready for the first attempt. The tide will reach a sufficient level of water by the middle of that night. In the evening Paul digs with his loader at the same place where Vagabond wintered last year.

Starting the Process to Beach Vagabond

Everything would have been simple if … is it the violent gust of wind or the Beluga that came two times around Vagabond, who would have decided that we would not see the depth of the hole dug that evening? Vagabond began to drift as the loader was digging. When the anchor hooked again in front of Grise Fiord, the hole was finished but we didn’t feel like leaving Vagabond, doubting about the good behavior of the anchorage.

Later on this moonless night, we begin the approach. But we quickly realize, immobilized in front of the shelter and after that broke a line by the traction of the loader, that it is not for tonight…

The following evening Paul digs again around Vagabond, high perched without water on the slope of the foreshore. At 1am, Vagabond progresses 3 meters before the chain slips. Then a second rope breaks… The pressure is rising: there is only one more attempt possible before the tide coefficients will decrease again.

Then comes back Raymond: he is the one who dug last year, “as much as he could”! The next morning he finds a longer and bigger chain that we prepare. Without any notice, at midday he arrives with his loader to make a test. Vagabond turns little bit but the loader rears up! A bit later at the highest of the tide, he comes back with Paul: in line one in front of the other, the two loaders hoist Vagabond without difficulties in its cradle! Before having finish our meal, spectators on the deck, we are in place for winter! Thank you Paul and Raymond for your pugnacity.

Next mission  – Summer 2022!

Éric Brossier
SV Vagabond

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About the Author

Since 1999, Eric has been sailing in Arctic waters as captain of the polar sailboat Vagabond which is dedicated to hosting scientific expeditions including 12 programs supported by the French Polar Institute, to places such as Greenland, Iceland, Russia, Japan, Alaska, Canada and Norway. 

This is his fourth winter in Grise Fiord and eighth winter in Nunavut.

Find out more at:

• SV Vagabond Blog
• Vagabond Expeditions

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The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising Club.