Fiordland is unquestionably the most beautiful area we have seen of this beautiful country. The first thought I have when reflecting on our trip through the region, however, is that it was an ordeal. I wouldn’t go so far as saying we shouldn’t have come for two reasons: The first is that most of the beautiful places we got to see in Fiordland, we only got to see because we were there on our own boat. The second is that had we not done it, I know I would be haunted by thoughts of whether we could have, or should have. Past Me knows what Future Me is like and Past Me knows Future Me wouldn’t be able to sleep wondering.

Knowing what I know now, I’m glad we came, but now that we’ve ticked it off of the list I think we both agree that neither of us feel the desire to do it again. A trip through Fiordland definitely requires advanced to expert level sailing all of the time. The weather at the high latitudes of Fiordland is generally worse than farther north. The winds are higher and the seas are much bigger. Storms are fast-moving, frequent and fickle and safe places to hide from them are far apart. Those places, when found, often require a lot more work to safeguard the boat. This work is often made even more unpleasant by having to carry it out in cold rain while wearing bulky gear. Almost everywhere that is safe in one wind or sea condition is terrifying in another. That, and the fact that the weather can deteriorate quickly means that much closer attention has to be paid to the weather both day and night. Most of Fiordland has no infrastructure and disaster means no help is going to be readily available.

This page includes two sections: a Pros and Cons section and a Useful Tips section (hints and tips for those who follow):

Pros and Cons of Visiting Fiordland with your Boat

Assuming you have decided to visit the Fiordlands, you will need to figure out how you are going to get there. There are lots of ways to visit – some take organized tours, some take day trips, some chose to rent an RV and others choose to buy a car and stay in rented accommodation or camp along the way. Then there are the very few who choose to take their own boat. If you are looking at the latter option, here are a few points you should consider before committing:

Pros

• It is less expensive to sail to the Fiords than any of the other options. You will save yourself a lot of money by opting out of the tour options, as tours are expensive in New Zealand and you will save yourself the cost of car rental and accommodation, not to mention the high cost of dining out

• You don’t need to pay marina fees while you travel

• You can bring as much stuff as your boat can carry – you have no luggage limits (fishing gear, scuba gear, etc.)

• You can explore at your own pace – as changeable weather, unforeseen opportunities and your own curiosity dictate

• You are not forced to move on due to pre-arranged bookings (hotel reservations, booked tours, etc.)

• You don’t have to share the experience with a crowd

• The constant swapping between sea and fresh water will deter bottom growth (as compared to leaving your boat someplace while you visit by car)

• You can see areas not accessible by car or standard tour options

• You can catch and enjoy your fill of fresh seafood (follow regulations/limits)

• You are more likely to have authentic engagements (e.g., meeting fishermen and locals)

• You are more likely to have wildlife experiences (seals, sea lions, whales, dolphins, penguins, etc.)

• Since you have traveled the distance south, it is relatively easy to extend the cruise and include a trip to Stewart Island…and maybe even a circumnavigation of South Island

Cons

• A tour with your own boat will take significantly longer (with the possibility of running into visa issues)

• It is a long way to go – expect a little more wear on your boat

• You can expect to add more motoring hours than normal for the distances involved

• Sandflies at anchor and ashore can drive you crazy

• You will miss out on all the inland highlights of the area

• You will need space to carry your trash until you reach civilization again

• Expect heavy rain, high winds along with some big seas and rough passages

• Expect to be stuck waiting for a weather window from time to time; this particularly applied to the bigger passages going to and coming from Fiordland (we never needed to wait more than a day or so, but others have reported waiting 2 weeks)

• You need to be very self-sufficient (expect no stores, no mobile signal, no internet, no laundry, no repair services, etc.)

• Cold water temperatures (warm clothing required, foul weather gear required, wet suit required, dry suit preferred)

• Cold air can cause condensation issues onboard

• Heating desirable/necessary depending on personal tolerance

Useful Tips

Best Time to Visit Fiordland

You will be planning to visit over the New Zealand summer as December to April is the best time for settled weather; specifically, December to February is the best time for sailing to Fiordland. Various guides suggest it is better to visit the South Island in a La Niña year; see the guide books for more details (suggestions provided at the end of this article). 

• In La Niña years, the South Island tends to have plenty of good sunshine days (while the Bay of Islands at the top of North Island finds itself overcast)

• During El Niño years, the Tasman sea gets more cold fronts and spring and summer months then towards stronger winds. At this time, the South Island is generally cloudier and wetter than usual. 

Anchorages

Not every sound or fiord has an all-weather anchorage, so be sure to plan ahead. Refer to Beneath the Reflections and other guides for anchorage advice and recommendations. Some anchorages are not suited for more than one or two vessels, so if you are sailing as a group plan ahead if you want to stick together. We were advised to expect to raft up with fishing vessels or other visiting craft, but during our visit, we never needed to. If you leave your boat unattended while you go ashore, it may be prudent to install fenders on one side to allow a second vessel to tie up.

• There are some very deep water anchorages and different guides make various recommendations for the length of chain that you should carry. Plan ahead based on where you might want to visit (and know your backup anchorages)

• Many anchorages are small with insufficient swing room. Stern-lines are essential for such anchorages, along with the ability to deploy them. Various guidebooks mention you should have two 100m lines in mesh bags on deck which are ready to deploy which have spring in the line or shock cords attached

• Ensure the line isn’t going to chafe against any rocks between the shore and your boat. We always set the stern lines so that they can be recovered from the main vessel, as a quick getaway may be required. This can be done by looping the rode/strap around a suitable trunk or branch with no obvious snags, with both ends of our lines being secured to the boat

• Generally mooring balls and fixed lines are on a first come, first serve basis (but you can call on the local VHF channel and ask first to be served). Some anchorages have permanent stern lines installed with floats that you can pick up; refer to Beneath the Reflections guide for what to expect at any anchorage. Most of the mooring balls in Deepwater Basin (Milford Sound) are privately owned and used by local tour boats and fishing boats. Don’t just pick one up; contact Fiordland Lobster Company (VHF 62) and ask if there are any available to use

Weather and Climate

• Expect cold nights and mornings. Temperatures were regularly around 12-14°C in the mornings, and the day rarely got above 20°C. Consider taking hot water bottles and hand warmers – you’ll thank me!

• Given the cold and humidity expect significant condensation (especially when cooking). Do what you can to prevent it and protect any items that may be sensitive to condensation (use bags/tubs). Air out the boat when you can (opportunities are restricted given bugs and rain)

• We have heating aboard and were very glad to have it, particularly in the mornings when the interior of the boat regularly hovered around 10°C. Heating (with an external vent) also helped with the condensation

• We appreciated our cockpit enclosure for passages and at anchor which made the cockpit a bit of a greenhouse and kept the wind off us while underway

• Expect lots of heavy rain as the Fiordlands get a lot of it. Milford Sound alone receives over 8m (25′) of rain a year, and it rains over half the year (even in summer). Bring appropriate foul weather clothing (and good boots for hiking trails which will be boggy)

• Expect rough passages. We were lucky to have good NW winds for our sail south between Fiords, but seas were often big (4m seas were not uncommon). Ensure you have everything on deck (and below) well secured

• It is possible to do trips between the sounds (in all weather anchorages) as day trips. There is no need for overnight passages within Fiordland provided the wind is not against you

• Sunshine – while we didn’t have much of it, it is recommended to pack suitable sun protection (clothing and sunscreen) as the UV rays in New Zealand are harsh (due to the thinning of the ozone layer). New Zealand has the highest rate of skin cancer in the world – protect yourself!

• If you are planning on swimming, snorkeling or scuba diving, dress for water temperature of 12-15°C in February (New Zealand summer). 

Weather Reports

• Know your weather forecast region (Fiordland region is ‘Milford’)

• Know the local Fishermen’s Radio Stations and times for repeated weather reports (normally twice a day; dual watch with Channel 16): see details in Beneath the Reflections

• There are no NowCast Stations broadcasting in Fiordland

• If you can send an email via sat phone, you can request coastal weather reports via email. Email request to [email protected]; in the message text enter a line with the text “send https://www.radionz.co.nz/news/weather/coastal” and you will current and 3-day forecast for all NZ coastal regions

• Contact Regional Navigational Safety for a current forecast

• Know the local relay/repeater channels. The repeater channel changes as you travel down Fiordland. See details in Beneath the Reflections for detail 

• Bring a hand-held VHF for your dinghy (or kayak) for emergency purposes; it also serves as a backup if your main unit fails in such a remote location

• We used Iridium Go along with Sailmail and PredictWind apps to download weather on demand. The Iridium Go always had signal, but often with low connectivity (meaning we received downloads but it took a while to receive the data). However, without this VHF weather will suffice if you can be sure to tune in at the right times (Fisherman’s VHF Stations)

• If you have MMSI capabilities, be sure your MMSI number is registered to your vessel

• Carry appropriate flares

Bugs!

Expect lots of sandflies at anchorages and ashore. The Fiordlands are notorious for these invasive bugs and even DEET doesn’t seem to deter them. Strong winds and darkness seem to settle them down, but otherwise, consider them omnipresent. 

• Sandflies are worse in the northern fiords and thin out (but are still present) around Chalky Inlet/Preservation Sound

• Prepare your boat hatches and doorways with effective bug covers. A full cockpit bug enclosure is recommended

• Bring clothing and bug spray, along with any bite relief

• We never had any mosquitos visit us, but guidebooks warned of them

• Note: Other cruisers that went different years and at different times reported that sandflies were a problem, but not nearly as bad as we experienced

Cash

There are few opportunities to spend money, but you should at least bring sufficient cash for any fuel and possible emergencies. Credit cards are unlikely to be accepted with the exception of organized tourist activities. 

• There are no ATMs in Fiordland

• NZ Coastguard membership is NZD$125/year and well worth having for your time in New Zealand in case you run into any trouble. If you are a member, rescue is free (you can sign up online, but you need a New Zealand address to deliver your member card to).

Fuel

• Expect to do lots of motoring – especially within the fiords where winds can be either non-existent or very strong and gusty

• You may need to motor between fiords if you can’t find a suitable wind window

• It is best to bring sufficient fuel and not rely on topping up. If you need fuel it may be best to call ahead and verify fuel is available and arrange an appointment to be sure the attendant is at the dock (everyone seems to have multiple jobs)

• Extra fuel cans may be required if your onboard tanks are small. Bring what you might need and have secure storage for them onboard

• Where fuel is available (Milford and Doubtful Sound), you will most likely need to pay in cash

• Milford Sound diesel was NZD$2/L at the fisherman’s fuel dock in Deepwater Basin (gasoline is not available at the dock). Cash is the only accepted form of payment

• Doubtful Sound offers both diesel and petrol, and cash and EFPOS is an accepted forms of payment 

Boat Insurance and Other Regulations

You must have a Clean Vessel Pass from Environment Southland, which can be applied for using your RealMe account (RealMe allows you to verify your identity online, allowing you to access online services). The pass may be issued on the same day provided you meet the criteria, and is valid for one year. The pass covers the whole of Southland, including Stewart Island, and may be sourced from the 2019 Application Page

• Be sure your insurance covers this region, and be aware of any limits on how many miles offshore you can go

• Be aware of marine reserves and general area fishing restrictions and limits (Beneath the Reflections has some information, as well as the useful and up-to-date NZ Fishing Rules app)

• Be aware of holding tank and dumping regulations (see Beneath the Reflections)

Communications

• Expect no mobile phone service throughout the Fiordlands, even in the tourist towns

• You can use your VHF radio, however topography limits distance any signal will transmit

• SSB broadcasts and channels are available if you have the equipment (but hills will block you within many fiords)

• At sea, there are regular VHF16 notices of weather broadcasts on the regional channels

Water

Important note for watermakers: the surface level water in the fiords can be several meters deep – do not use your watermaker if it is not designed for freshwater usage. Water is available at various fiords (see guides), but it is most likely untreated

Pets

No dogs are allowed ashore in the National Parks (this applies throughout the Fiordlands).

Showers

Expect to wash onboard as there is limited public showers availability.

Rubbish and Recycling

Expect to carry your trash and recycling onboard until you reach civilization again. We were given permission to use the dumpster at Milford Sound (by the fuel wharf). Be aware of the rules for any dumping at sea.

Laundry

Do not expect to find any laundry facilities, although Deep Cove, Doubtful Sound (Deep Cove Hostel) does offer laundry facilities at NZD$10/load.

Groceries

Expect no provisioning opportunities throughout the sounds, so arrive prepared for the duration of your trip. There is plenty of fresh seafood, but be aware of restrictions and limits. Bring your fishing gear, regulation measures, puau blade, etc.

Pump Out/Holding Tanks 

Expect no pump-out facilities, and be aware of the holding tank and dumping regulations (see Beneath the Reflections).

Water Safety

Afternoon sea breezes can blast winds and gusts up the Fiords (often very strong – 20kt+). We found it very difficult to row against the strong winds at times. Plan any dinghy/kayak trips to go ‘with the winds,’ or be sure to have a very reliable engine with sufficient power and good spray protection and waterproof clothing.

First Aid

You will be very remote so take extra precautions in everything you do. Bring sufficient supplies of any required medications and a general first aid kit for any emergencies. Always wear your lifejackets while in your kayak/dinghy, and carry a handheld VHF radio – this is not a place to risk any accidents.

Transportation Ashore

There is nowhere to rent a car in Fiordland (as you arrive by boat). We were advised that even in the rare instance that public transport is available, it is unlikely to depart and return the same day (transport is designed for tourists traveling in the other direction)

Southern Lights

You may get very lucky and see the Southern lights, especially in the southern fiords. Check for a KP Index of 5 or greater via the Aurora Service website 

• If you can send an email, you can send a message to [email protected] with any subject line and in the message text enter a line with the text send http://www.aurora-service.net/aurora-forecast/ and you will get a reply with the text of that web page (which includes a current and 3-day forecast for KP Index forecast in UTC times) 

Charts

• Relevant NZ Charts are listed in the Tenaya guide – but can also be determined via LINZ

• Our Navionics charts were accurate on both the chart plotter with data card and iPhone apps with downloaded data. At times we were 1-2m offset in very narrow anchoring coves compared to our reported GPS, though our compromised GPS signal may have been a factor. We were confident relying on the data we had; regardless, we made sure to arrive at any anchorage in daylight

• Download and update your electronic charts before you depart as coverage is not readily available

• Paper charts: apply any relevant updates and reference NZ Chart Update notices

• AIS is not widely used even by the larger tour boats in the sounds. Keep a good lookout.

Guidebooks and Resources

Download, source or purchase all required guide books before departure. We recommend:

• Beneath the Reflections published by the Fiordland Marine Guardians. This was our go-to guide and the best guidebook for an area by miles. It is free to download and inexpensive to purchase. Along with marine reserve information and fishing regulations/limits, it also has excellent up-to-date anchorage information (e.g., where you find mooring balls, stern lines provided, etc.). It also has useful weather information and lots of good VHF tips, including radio relay channels. If you only bring one guide book – this should be it! As of 2019, the link was for 2017, second edition

Sailing to Fiordland and Stewart Island “ What you need for a successful circumnavigation of New Zealand 

• Sailing to Fiordland and Stewart Island “What you need for a successful circumnavigation of New Zealand (2012) by Jim and Katie Thomsen of SV Tenaya. This report provides excellent information from cruisers that went before us, along with lots of useful tips and an excellent list of charts. Their NZ web page provides an excellent NZ PDF

• GuideBook: A Boaties’ Guide to Fiordland by the Mana Cruising Club. You can pick this up from any marine publication website or store (NZD$45). This is a rather old guide book from the 1990s and while much is out of date, the anchorage information remains valid (minor changes only in that many now have fixed stern lines available) and it contains several useful snippets of history and some trail/hike info

(2012) by Jim and Katie Thomsen of SV Tenaya. This report provides excellent information from cruisers that went before us, along with lots of useful tips and an excellent list of charts. Their NZ web page provides an excellent NZ PDF

• Trail guides/appropriate land maps would be useful when looking for options to go ashore. The Mana Guide recommends Moir’s Guide Book (Southern Section). We had the Pocket Earth Pro app with topographical maps downloaded for offline use, which provided excellent all-over New Zealand information, but it lacked the remote trails in Fiordland (only displayed the key tramper DOC trails)

• New Zealand Marine Radio Handbook by John Allen (2009) is recommended, but we did not have a copy so cannot advise. Up-to-date information appears to be given in the Beneath the Reflections guidebook

• Maritime NZ Radio Handbook has basic radio advice (and emergency contact details) as a free download along with scripts for trip reports etc. This is generic for the whole of NZ; it is not Fiordland specific and does not include area fisherman stations

• Area tourist guides (e.g., Lonely Planet guide book and free regional brochures that can be picked up at AA or iSite Visitor Centers) are useful, but only for the two sounds with road access (Milford and Doubtful Sound)

• Boaties Booklet. A fantastic booklet published annually and handed out for free to visitors on arrival to NZ. Good for all NZ destinations. It has an extensive list of marinas and yacht clubs (with contact info), haul out and service centers, and some great sections on weather, tides, fishing, etc. You can also see details online and there is a app available (boaties.co.nz)

• NZ Fishing Rules Application is useful (for all of NZ) and up to date (make sure you view any species of interest and mark them as favorites while you have a signal so you can then view them offline, or go online before you leave and print off the info you need)

• Nature Guidebooks for specific areas of interests are useful, e.g., birds, sea critters, geology, etc.

• Invasive Species: download the Marine Pest ID Guide and be on the lookout for things that should not be there and report what you find. There is even a nice waterproof spiral bound booklet (free)

Entertainment and Activities

• Bring books, games movies, and projects to entertain yourself at night.

• Organized tours are only offered in Milford Sound and Dusky Sound. 

• Various companies offer kayak rentals and is a great way to tour the Sounds.

• Various companies offer boat cruises up and down the Fiord, or flights to visit the stunning glaciers (at a cost, but a great way to see the stunning scenery from a different vantage point) 

• Scuba diving: Descend is a dive company that runs out of Milford Sound. There are no known bottle services available for independent air refills. 

Milford Sound Updates

Discovery Center/Underwater Observatory, Harrison Cove

The observatory is a floating platform with a module that goes deep below the water and has windows to observe both ‘planted’ areas and the waters beyond. It opens at 8:15am and is busy most of the day with tourist activity. If you wish to visit with your own dinghy it is recommended you go early (before 9am). We paid NZD$20/pp and got a personalized tour to ourselves. You can call them on VHF 11 and they will advise you where to tie your dingy. Remember this is an observatory – not an aquarium – so you’ll see whatever happens to be swimming by on the day, but black coral grows around the viewing platform so you’ll see that. In the main entry area, there are interesting information boards on the local area history and geology.

Milford Track (Milford Sound)

If you plan to take a stroll along the track, you’ll need to get across the sound at the start/end of the track at Sandfly Point. However, the priority on the track is to paying trampers and the dingy dock is provided for the water taxis; you must not leave your dinghy unattended between 1pm and 6pm. If you want to short walk on the Milford Track, plan to do it in the morning or get dropped off and collected. Otherwise, you can haul up your dingy on land, though it is not an easy feat. 

Milford Sound Lodge 

The lodge no longer offers provisioning, shower, or laundry services. A restaurant, bar, coffee shop and satellite internet are available.

Fiordland Lobster Company 

The fuel dock monitors VHF 62 and is managed by Wayne Webb, phone contact +64 32498093

Deep Cove (Doubtful Sound)

We didn’t enter Deep Cove, but various tours and kayak rentals are available there.

• Deep Cove Hostel (and fuel dock) http://deepcovehostel.co.nz/ Email: [email protected], phone: +64 (03) 928 5262

Maryanne and Kyle Webb
SV Begonia

The opinions expressed in this article are the author’s own and do not reflect the view of Noonsite.com or World Cruising Club.