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Cruising the Adriatic - Summer 2015

By Ian Bray — last modified Nov 26, 2015 08:55 AM
We have been cruising the Adriatic this summer and I have been making cruising notes as we go. These are mostly for Croatia, but also cover Montenegro and parts of Italy. I have mainly been adding to and correcting the information available in the pilots (777 and Thompson) and have also focused on the alternatives to the relatively expensive marinas.

Published: 2015-07-16 23:00:00
Countries: Italy , Montenegro , Croatia

Cruising the Adriatic - Summer 2015

Kotor Harbour (taken from the fortress). SY Jigsaw is the boat anchored in the top left corner.

Report by Ian Bray
SY Jigsaw (Moody 38CC) from Christchurch, Dorset, UK.

ITALY – South Adriatic

There seems to be silting in Naxos; depths were generally a metre less than charted.

The entrance to Rocella is as bad as ever. We exited in a 1 metre swell and I really would not want to try it in any more than that (well less than a metre under our shallow keel). Fees in Rocella have increased sharply; we were charged 40E for our 38 feet and a 45 footer was charged 50E.

We liked Otranto; a bit touristy but an interesting town. There are some good walks to be had and the old town and the church are well worth a look.  Despite what the pilot says, there is no fruit and veg market and no fish market. There are 3 biggish supermarkets (Conad, Eurospin and another) about 1Km to the NE of the old town. Go along Via San Giovanni and you will pass a decent fish shop on the way. Also Camping Gas in Via Idro. It was only 20E a night for our 11.5 metres on the quay. There is water but no elec. Call Andreas on +3983673028 for berthing. 45 mins in the coastguard office to complete paperwork and then 20E to Andrea. Plenty of room to anchor (free) in the NW end of the harbour but beware of rocky area off the old town. We found 2 snags with the place:- If there is any swell outside, a nasty little surge sets in. If you leaving Italy here, checking out can be problematical. When we checked in we asked if we could check out the previous evening if we were leaving early and were told no you can’t but no problem - the office is open 24/7 and “you can check out any time you like” (quote from Hotel California) – not true. On departure day I went to the coastguard office at 06:00 only to be told to come back at 08:00, So, Melanie went back at 08:00 and had to wait an hour as the police did not arrive. When the coastguard commandant arrived at 09:00 he said we could go without waiting for the police, so we did but after a 3 hour delay! (Note, 2 other boats left 2 days earlier at about 06:00 and no one could explain how they managed to check out that early!)

The Lega Navale in Brindisi did not prove helpful. Tried to phone but the number in the pilot book and on their web-site got “number not in use”. Tried VHF but no reply. On arrival were waved away with “no possible” (although several empty slots were evident). The town quay proved ok despite wash from ferries - and only 15Euro. You go alongside but there are lazy-lines to keep you pulled just off the quay. Local Dok and Conad supermarkets are expensive but there is a Eurospin which is more reasonable and a good fruit and veg market in the morning.

The harbour at Savelletri has been much extended and offers improved shelter. Space for a couple of yachts to anchor inside the new, outer harbour. You may be able to negotiate a stern-to space inside the new, outer North breakwater.

Mola Di Bari has plenty of space to anchor inside the harbour but if there is a NWerly sea running (which, of course, we had) it is uncomfortable. We therefore moored on the pontoons at the W end of the harbour (the North mole was completely taken up with fishing boats) and were charged 3Euro/metre for the privilege.

MONTENEGRO (South to North)

We checked in at Bar. We moored on the custom quay (chartlet in Thompson is accurate, 777 is wrong) and checked in. Procedure is: Harbour master (office about 200m SSE in a small street to the left of the Tourist Office , then bank (to pay), then back to Harbour Master (to collect vignette), then Customs office (by the quay). Took an hour and a half (including queueing) and cost us 45E. (A 13 metre yacht were charged 115E for their vignette - and paid 80E for a night in the AD marina!) Told we could not stay on custom quay so went around to fuel dock where (after more queueing) we tanked up on cheap diesel - 1.15E a litre.

We then motored about 15 miles to Budva where we anchored outside harbour. Anchoring space now limited by scattered moorings but still room. Loud music necessitated earplugs – otherwise, a peaceful night. Park dinghy in far SW corner of marina by the submarine (chartlet in 777 is accurate, Thompson is wrong) Quaint, touristy old town.

On to Bigova. Now more of a holiday resort than an agricultural hamlet but a nice enough spot. Anchorage again cluttered with moorings. Restaurant guy dinghied out to say moorings free out of season so we picked one up (free if you dine at Grispolis in season). Went into restaurant to have a beer and get wifi (very slow).

Kotor is not to be missed. We moored across the inlet by the derelict Fjord Hotel. Told the quay is 40E and there is a traffic noise; also, the sun rises an hour earlier at the anchorage! We did the climb and discovered (from the top) that there is a sneaky free back door entrance if you are too cheapskate to pay the 3E. (Start by the river and follow the zig zag path up the valley to the small abandoned church. The back door is then obvious.) (We have subsequently been told by friends who visited a couple of months later (high season) that they were not allowed to anchor – ho hum.)

Tried to anchor off Risan but could not get the hook to grip well (soft mud we assume) so we went to the harbour. There is space at the end of the mole but the fence makes access to the bollards very tricky so we rafted up alongside one of the unoccupied, resident (?) yachts opposite the mole. No trouble, no charge. A couple of quaint bits around the back streets but not much to it.

Uvola Krtole is now much cluttered with mussel farms but we found a delightful quiet spot beyond the farm at the far end of the small bay just SE of the islands.

Checked out of Montenegro at Zelenika. Simple and quick. Moor on the NW side of the quay (not where 777 indicates). The only snag is the large black rubber fenders – rig a fender blanket if you can.

CROATIA (South to North – roughly)

We checked in at Cavtat. Moored on customs quay (where we were charged 100Kn for 45 mins!) Mooring guy pointed us to the Police office where he had a quick look at crew list and sent me on to harbour master (400+ K for 12month cruising permit and 650K for 3 months tourist tax). Had to nip to ATM to get the cash although they will take Euros. Told we could anchor free anywhere in the harbour but all the best spots are full of moorings so went around to U Tiha. Likewise, the best bits are full of moorings. We tried to anchor in a little gap but just ended up fouling the anchor on a big chain! Managed to free it and anchored further out where, as opposed to Cavtat, it is still shallow enough. (Took the bus to Dubrovnic the next day.) Woken early by katabatic wind but not rough.

Anchored off the small marina at Gruz without hassle and dighied to head of inlet to big Tommy supermarket.

Recommend Sunj, Lopud; nice little bay with a good beach and excellent walking.

Saplunara, Mljet is cluttered with 20+ mooring buoys but found room to anchor (in 6m) in NW corner. Despite a stiff Northerly all night, proved most satisfactory.

Polance, Mljet is lovely and well sheltered. Tuck into the NW corner with a line ashore for the best shelter from the Bora (which we had!) Excellent walking. We (and others) were not charged but probably because it was still early season (and we did not go into the village).

On our return trip, we visited Luka Velji Lago, Lastavo which is buoy free – we used the anchorage in U Kremene where you can find considerably less than the 15m depth (mentioned in Thompson) on the N side (about 7.5 m, actually). We checked out of Ubli with no difficulty (and spent the last of the Khuna in the small supermarket).

On the way up, the next stop was Lumbarda, Kocula. Dropped the hook where Thompson says but were waved further over to W side of harbour – better place really. We went into the marina 2 days later (to sit out sirocco) and found it very satisfactory all round and only 280Kn (inc. services ) for 12m.

U Sv Ivan / Gradina on Korcula is now full of pay buoys (150Kn for 12m) and, sadly, no space left to anchor.

Racisce anchorage has plenty of space and good holding. Checked out U Banja. Both arms of the bay are now full of moorings but there is room to anchor in the middle of the bay by the small beach. However, a big ongoing development at the back of the bay was noisy and is not pretty so moved round the corner to U Vrbovica which is much nicer - holding a bit iffy though. Interestingly, our Navionics electronic chart was about 30m out of kilter just here; it showed us sailing over and anchoring on dry land. I’ve not seen this sort of error before - other than in the Red Sea!

Loviste, Peljesac offers good shelter from the sea but was too windy to dinghy ashore when we were there.

Subject to harbour dues (120Kn for 12m) you can still anchor at Vis in the (best sheltered) corner near the fuel berth - despite the no anchoring sign. (The numerous buoys in the SE part of the harbour were quoted at 252Kn and stern-to the quay at 520Kn.)

The Pakleni islands are lovely. Delightful, small cove at Marinkovic. Loads of space to anchor in Vinogradisce; just as well as it was very busy. Nice walks across the island (loads of cacti and a peacock!) and along the ridge to the West.

We anchored in Hvar town harbour (room for a few between the quay and the moorings) to sightsee. No charge during the day.

Zukova is very quaint but rather deeper than the books say and not enough room to swing with adequate scope so we decided not to tie back and went to Luka Vlaska instead. Not quite as attractive (although deserted now the fish farm has gone) and also rather deep but the Southernmost cove allows anchoring and tying back to trees both sides –very secure “triangular” mooring (which we wanted, as Sirocco forecast) Parked up there and went for first dip – cold! Shelter proved excellent.

At U Luka, Brac we declined restaurant Pipo’s buoy at 150Kn (whether or not you ate there) and ended up on restaurant Rojen’s pontoon (for customers). Shelter from a mini Sirocco proved excellent. Proprietor, Arande (looks a bit like Eddie Jordan and walks like Popeye the sailor) is charming and most obliging. Had authentic dinner (lamb) with dessert, home-made wine and copious free home-made “liqueurs”. Cost 160Kn each (pretty good) – and a bit of a headache in the morning! Also joined in local game (similar to boule but with disks instead of balls) with some Slovenians (only other customers).

Next day (miserable, wet - Sirocco still blowing) motored 2 sheltered miles to Povlya and moored alongside quay to buy internet top-up and a few supplies. The yacht mooring location SE of the jetty (shown in the pilots) is taken up with fishing boats and the NW side is used by the ferry. We were told there would be an overnight charge so we went back to U Luka to anchor.

We moored alongside the quay at Spliska and were not charged (too early in the season according to the man in the gelateria). A very satisfactory berth given the duff weather (still only May). The inlet just to the west looks to be a good anchorage as well.

At Lucice, Brac we found the W arm is full of pay buoys (price not discovered as we arrived very late and left early!). Good shelter though and it looks as though there may well be space to anchor in the central and E coves (although we saw nobody in there).

The gorge at Omis is pretty spectacular but the pilot books are little help. We found 2.3 metres on the bar and 4+m in the river but it is stuffed with local boats – no chance of mooring. The harbour is likewise stuffed with tripper boats (rafted 5 deep) and the suggested anchorage to the E of the harbour is 20m deep with little swinging room – hopeless. If you don’t mind anchoring in 3m there is plenty of room on the shallows SW of the harbour, which is where we stopped. Totally exposed to E, thru S to SW though.

U Gornja Krusica, Solta is as per the books. If you like to deploy plenty of chain (as we do) just room to swing if you anchor in 8m. The SW cove of U Necujam proved nice and well sheltered. Best to tie back and beware of the wreck! A couple of good walks to be had, including Grohote (4Km) which is interesting in itself and has a supermarket and Stomorska (7K and steep at each end). The “village” of Necujam was, basically, shut. Susula is a long narrow inlet; we anchored at the far end tied back with lines to both sides – very sheltered. No phone signal for the internet though.

Kastel Sucurac in Kastelenski Zaljev gets short shrift in the pilot books. We really only went to get gas but the old village is actually charming enough (just ignore the view of the cement works and the container port) and has a small fish and veg market first thing in the morning. You can get also get a bus from here to Split and it is well handy for Split airport. As advised in Thompson, we moored alongside the W end of the quay (some fishermen said it was ok).  Beware of rocks a bit further E along the quay and note that the longitude given in Thompson is half a mile out; it should be 16.25.52. The gas depot is about 2Km E along the coast road; just past the cement works bridge over the main road, turn right and it is at the far end. It is only open from 08:00 to 12:00 and as we arrived in the afternoon, we stayed overnight (no charge) and went in the morning. The gas is very cheap – 28Kn for 3 Kg!  Amazing really that there is a free quay just a mile or so from the expensive marinas; no shelter from the S though and there is occasional slight wash from passing ships.

To visit Split we anchored in the bay immediately E of Split harbour. The whole of the bay is buoyed off for swimming but at the E end you can anchor in 5m just outside the swimming area (on a calm day).

The marina at Maslinica, Solta is now up and running and has a new mole extending from the S of the entrance, presumably improving the shelter in there. We were quoted 514Kn for berth plus 50Kn for w and e (but didn’t take it up). We found Tatinja, Solta too deep for our liking and Stracinska was also problematical. In the Western cove, you have to drop the hook far in for reasonable depth and can only tie back to one side. Ok until the wind turns SE (not forecast) as a result of which we had to leave at 23:00.

To avoid a thunderstorm, we went to Sesula, Solta where we anchored with lines ashore to rocks on both sides at the head of the inlet. It would probably have been ok there when the subsequent Bora arrived but we decided to move to Razetinovic, Ciovo which (after a very windy beat!) proved well sheltered but too windy to get ashore and so we opted for a night in the ACI marina Trogir to do the laundry, get supplies and have a worry free night as the Bora blew through. Note, even though the Bora is generally NW, just hereabouts, it blows from the NE. Prices: ACI 67E (12m), Segret 580Kn, Agana 57E. There is a new marina which appears to be for charters only just to the W of ACI and Segret has been extended.

U Stari Trogir is pleasant enough but open to any sea or wind from the S so only a lunch stop unless completely calm. There are now 4 restaurant buoys in Sicenica - room for one yacht to anchor in the E arm ahead of them. A bit rolly even with very slight swell. The rest of the anchorage became very busy.

Vinisce/Biskupija is buoy free and a pleasant anchorage in all but strong SEerlies.

We found Rogoznica lacking in charm but very sheltered anchorages. The inlet just E of the causeway now contains many new mooring buoys – probably chargeable.

Primosten has numerous buoys just E of the harbour (we didn’t stay long enough to find the cost) but there is still an anchorage further East.

Zlarin is an attractive place and the tiny museum is worth a visit. (Loads of roadside figs to be had if you walk inland, in the season.) Mooring on the quay cost us 330Kn (including w and e). There are now 10 pay buoys (231Kn) on the SW side of the inlet but you can anchor free on the NE side.

The Krka river is a must. At Skrabin we moored in the 3rd bay opposite - as recommended by Nimbus and Rosa – which we had to ourselves - no charge. (About 6 other boats were moored off the 1st bay.) The greengrocer along the front by the bike hire shop is exhorbitant – the best bakery is near the marina office. Good view from the fortress and the trip to the falls is not to be missed. (We have subsequently been told by friends who visited a couple of months later that the days of free anchoring here are numbered.)

Looked into 3 anchorages (Rasline, Beretusa and Vrulje) in Prukljansko Jezero but didn’t fancy any of them. Anchored behind the little island near Fort St, Nicola. The island provides a handy lee but the bay shelves quickly and there are numerous small boulders in the shallows so it is a fine line between avoiding the boulders and getting into the lee. A lovely spot though and a very good walk along the new coast path to the submarine pen and the church in a cave – all very interesting. The fort is well worth a visit as well and there are mussels to be had! We raided the large, just awash, block of concrete (uncharted) that lies in 4 metres over towards the fort. The bay opposite (Debeli) has limited swinging room but is tenable.

Luka Tijascica, Tijat is pleasant if busy. Many new mooring buoys but, sensibly, laid along the middle where it is deep so plenty of room to anchor around the edges which we did (despite the no anchoring signs which everyone ignores). A boat came to collect the mooring buoy fees at 18:00 and left at 19:30 – no charge for anchoring. There is now a small café ashore.

Stupica, Zirje is now full of buoys apart from the small cove to the E of the middle bay where there is room for 5 yachts to anchor (unfortunately full when we arrived). U Tratinska, Kaprije is now also stuffed with buoys.

The anchorage at Otok Zminjak the islet NW of Murter now has pay buoys  but there are plenty of other anchorages in the area, including Hramina harbour; anchor in the S just E of the beach and the supermarket is very handy. In the town you can buy tickets for the Konati Park; 250Kn for one day 500Kn for 2 or 3 days. All the buoys in Konati are free but there are not as many as we expected. We picked up a buoy in Ravni Zakan (N bay) to check out the information centre (in the S bay) but it was closed. Rangers came to check our ticket. (Very expensive restaurant in the S bay.)

Lopatica, Konati is highly recommended in 777 – pleasant enough we didn’t think it was that special. No buoys so we anchored. Rangers checked pass again.  Picked up a buoy in Levrnaka (there are 8) and had a nice walk up through the olive groves. Sipnate has no buoys but a pleasant spot for a swim. Rangers checked pass again. Checked out Statival (no buoys) which is said to give good shelter in Northerlies but the wind actually funnels through so moved back to Suhi Rat and picked up one of the 8 buoys. A good place to watch the sunset! Nearly all the allowed overnight stops have restaurants, many with pontoons/quays (presumably free for customers). All in all, we thought the islands rather over-hyped although there is no doubting the stark beauty. They only seem to check tickets when you are moored so if you just want to have a gawp, you could probably sail through the islands for free.

Zutska Aba, Zut is buoy free and a good stop for snorkelling. Pinizelic, Zut now has 16 pay buoys and an anchoring exclusion zone. However, there is a good anchorage just to the North of the shallows connecting the small island to Zut. Anchor in 4 to 8 m in sand.

U Gnal (Zaplopica), Pasman looks nice but is now full of buoys. Room for a couple of yachts to anchor (full when we arrived) but not far enough away from the buoys to avoid a fee if they are that way inclined. We anchored overnight in a cove on the S side of O Rabac – not in the pilots but quite satisfactory. At Zadar we anchored in the little cove between the marinas – handy to do a bit of shopping.

Sutomiscica, Uglian is a pleasant, free anchorage. We tucked into the SW corner.

We can recommend Muline, Uglian which is a lovely place and well sheltered from Southerlies. You can anchor for free (ignore the obsolete “no anchoring” sign) or pick up a well maintained buoy for 15Kn a metre or use the lazy lines on the jetty for 20Kn a metre (including water and electricity). We sat out a sirocco, in comfort, on a buoy and were only charged 150Kn (for 11.5m). The café by the jetty is good value and the staff and the proprietor, Lenko, are most obliging. (He has a “pet” moray eel which lives under the dock). We also went alongside to tank up with water in the morning (no extra charge).

Otok Mulat still has plenty of buoy-free anchorages, including Podgarbe, Jazi, Konopljicka, off the islet of Tovarnjak and the large, unnamed bay at the SE end of the island. In Jazi, there are scattered rocks up to around 100 metres from the shore so, to avoid scraping your chain, anchor a bit further out on clear sand.

Looked into Sv Nicola, Olib – full of pay buoys, marginal anchoring space. U Premuda is subject to swell from the WNW. We anchored in Southern cove in 4.5m, sand – decent shelter from bora – can tie back to rocks. There is an overgrown path from the small central cove up to the track that runs along the spine of the island.

Papranica, Silba now has pay buoys (15Kn/m) and a 150m anchoring exclusion zone which means you must anchor to the SE in 8+ metres.

Balvanida, Losinj is 12m deep in the outer part and the inner part is now stuffed with stupid little buoys; not good. Krivica is much the same although we were told (cannot confirm) that there is room to anchor with lines ashore at the head of the inlet. Vali Englis offered limited shelter from the stiff N’erly blowing when we arrived (but could be good otherwise) so moved on to Artotore. The edges and coves now have many buoys for small craft but still plenty of room to anchor in 7 or 8 metres – good holding. There is a mini-mart but very limited stock. There is a nice little café/restaurant in Cunski (about 1 mile inland) where you can find out how much the locals pay for a coffee/meal – interesting! We cycled to Mali Losinj and were pleasantly surprised to find a Lidl in town as we were in need of supplies. Loads of room in the old marina which, on the internet, quotes 53Euro for us (not that we went in there). Also a new “marina” just to the North – looked like limited shelter though. We found that the swing bridge at Mali Losinj lets South bound traffic through first. Note that the sea state on one side of the bridge can be very different from the other!

Susak is a delightful little island. Twenty or so buoys (fore and aft mooring) have been laid in the bay just West of the town and are charged at 20Kn/m; anchoring is prohibited. There are around 9 stern-to mooring places on the mole just inside the harbour which are charged at 18.5Kn/m (for 10m to 15m yachts; a bit less for smaller ones and more for larger ones). The same charge applies to the stern-to moorings on the outside of the mole but, whereas the inside ones provide excellent shelter, those outside are uncomfortable in strong SEerlies and untenable in a bora (as is the entrance to the safe moorings inside).

Podkujni and Voviska bays on Unije are still buoy-free.

Martinscica, Cres is buoy free and practically deserted when we were there – apart from a couple of deer on the shore. Good holding and good shelter from Bora (which we had). Watch out for the spit – there is a yellow cross mark on the end. (Should be a S cardinal really – nearly caught me out and we saw a motor cruiser run aground.) Passed by Pogana and Baldarin – both buoyed up but Meli is still buoy free. (Later we viewed Baldarin and Pogana during the sirocco (from the shore!) Pogana was rough but, oddly, the swell did not penetrate into Baldarin (although the wind did) and the top end was buoy free if rather shallow.)

In Laka Pod Sv Kriz, Kolorat has 16 buoys which appear to be well maintained (13 Kn/m which includes garbage collection). There is a 150m anchoring exclusion zone which eliminates the rest of that branch for anchoring. The small W branch cove in Majiska has buoys for craft under 9m and also has a 150m anchoring exclusion zone. You are free to anchor elsewhere in the inlets and can find good shelter from Southerlies. Limited places with shelter from Bora and even less with shelter from both directions. When we arrived there was the (unusual?) forecast of a sirocco immediately followed by a bora and, since the prime anchoring spots were taken, we went for a buoy. Glad we did as a 50 knot bora hit at midnight and our mooring (and all the others) proved secure! The couple who run the moorings actually came out during the midnight bora – presumably to check that all was well. They also come around with bread and cakes for sale in the morning.

Rab is our favourite town in Croatia. There is lots of room to anchor in Sv Fumija.

Punat, Krk is a fine anchorage. Camping gas refill (48Kn for a 907) can be had at Milcatici (a mile S of Malinska). We went by scooter but it looks as though you could anchor off the small harbour (not Malinska harbour) and the filling station is then about 1Km inland.

We looked into Beli, Cres but decided that mooring or anchoring is not feasible whilst the swimming area is buoyed off.

Cres town now has a new jetty (used for tripper boats) and 2 more jetties (see 777, 2014) are planned but no sign of works yet. Visiting yachts moor stern-to the outside of the old W wall (25Kn/m + 25Kn for 1000l of water). The free anchorage (good holding in 6-8m) is now at the E of the bay, off the beach between the ship yard and the marina. (The large mooring buoys shown in Thompson have gone.) The food shops in town are expensive; the best we found was good old Konzum, which also happens to be the nearest to the anchorage.

At Medulin, if you like hordes of people, jetskis, banana rides, speedboats etc. the anchorage in the bay South of the town should suit you. Otherwise, the anchorage NW of the town is much quieter. Good holding in 3m mud. There is a handy launderette (!) a short walk from the latter anchorage in Valnizeja. Run by the hotel Hilde (almost opposite the local Konzum) it is available to all and costs 40Kn per big load.

We anchored at the NE end of Pula bay near the railway station (large, cerise building) in 4-5m mud – good holding. Short row ashore and 10min walk to centre. 30min walk (ENE, along Istarske Divizije) to big shops; Plomine, Lidl, Bauhaus etc.

The W cove at Sv Andrija, Istria has a few buoys and there is room to anchor further out but may be chargeable. The E cove is buoyed for swimming out to 7m deep. It shelves fairly steeply beyond that and so there is limited scope for anchoring. The middle of the bay is sand but it is rocky at the sides.

Polari, just to the East, has numerous buoys for small craft around the sides but there is still room to anchor (free) in 4m, sand in the middle (impossible to avoid all the fan mussels). You are surrounded by a huge camp site but it was quiet at night when we stayed (July). Subject to slight swell in a SE’erly; wide open to the W.

Vestar, just SE of Polari, has several mooring buoys and so you can only anchor some way out. Loud music at night has been reported.

Rovinj has 20 mooring buoys (which appear to be in good condition) for boats up to 15m in the S of the bay. Cost is just 8Kn/m. Very pleasant parkland on the S peninsular. Incidentally, the marina was full.

Near the mouth of Limski Fjord, we didn’t go in but saw several yachts anchored in Kriz. Soline, just to the E has a prominent “no anchoring” sign in the middle of the bay.

The anchorage at Valkanela has room for about 3 yachts tucked in behind the islet; sheltered from swell from all directions except due W. Good holding in 3.5m. Music all night – but not that loud. Alternatively, we saw a couple of other yachts anchored in the E bight of Sv Juraj, opposite Vrsar marina.

The harbour at Novigrad is full of mooring buoys – no anchoring it would appear. There is loads of room to anchor (free) in Luka Mirna in the SE by the camp site (as we did) and you can also anchor (free) in the small cove just S of Novigrad town but the holding there we found to be moderate.

Umag harbour is full of mooring buoys; 11Kn/m. There does not appear to be any place to anchor. The Police office (for checkout) is, allegedly, open 24/7 and operated efficiently.

ITALY - Gulf of Venice

Moorings in Grado town harbour are 40Euro for 12m. Darsena San Marco marina no longer offers 48 hours free (as per Thompson 5th edition) and want 52Euro (12m) to moor between the piles. We anchored in the wide channel NW of the lagoon entrance with no problem. (The current did not exceed 2 knots either way.)

The main (Lido) entrance to Venice lagoon now has a large offshore breakwater which provides a sheltered anchorage outside the entrance (and free mussels to pick off the breakwater). Inside the lagoon, we anchored on the N side of the wide channel to the N of Burano with no problem. The holding in mud is excellent and the tidal stream did not exceed 2 Knots. The advertised depths in the channels within the lagoon are not maintained; we found a couple of patches of just 1.6m in the channel from Burano to Murano where it should be 2.4m. The speed limits (as little as 7Km/h in places) are universally ignored and much wash is created – particularly by the taxi-boats.

We stayed at the Vento do Venizia marina which offered a very reasonable deal (600Euro) for 1 month in high season.

We have found this web site:- useful and, hopefully, you will find these notes helpful as well.

Ian Bray
SY Jigsaw

Also see Ian's Cruising Notes on Cruising Egypt

julian georgy
julian georgy says:
Aug 26, 2015 01:17 PM

.."Note, even though the Bora is a NW wind, just hereabouts it blows from the NE"....Bora (Bura or Grego in Croatian) is actually NE wind. Mistral (Maestral in Croatian) is NW wind, you actually had a MISTRAL all the time.

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