Following the MGR580s

I am sailing solo round this beautiful world at the age of 72 having set off from the UK in June 2024.  Currently I am accompanying the little 19ft Mini Globe Race 580 boats as they race around the world.  These 19ft plywood shoeboxes – which is how I describe them – are designed for this race and so far have met all the challenges.

The purpose of this report is to alert Noonsite’s readers and members to some of the challenges and problems that I encountered when visiting the Cocos Keeling Islands.

Challenges Faced

• Ferries:  There is a limited ferry timetable from Direction Island to Home island – it operates two days per week.  Unfortunately on two consecutive Thursdays while I was there, the ferry was cancelled at the last minute, sighting mechanical issues.  It seems rather questionable to have consecutive breakdowns affecting the same day of their timetable?  (Noonsite note:  Visiting vessels are required to enter and depart the anchorage at Direction Island only and are prohibited from transiting the lagoon, to the Home Island or West Island wharf facilities.  The only way to move around between the islands is to use the ferry services, a local water taxi or your own dinghy if it is big and solid enough.  See the Direction Island page for more information.)
• Fuel:  You can no longer get any fuel from Home Island. The additional cost to arrange a water taxi is eye-wateringly expensive at $200 per hour + the cost of the fuel. Being an old boy that back in the 1970s could buy four gallons of petrol for £1, the example I cite is in pounds sterling; £500 for 30 imperial gallons which I personally think is expensive!
• Mooring Fees:  You still have to go to Home Island to pay your mooring dues, so what with the unreliability of the ferry from Direction island one needs to have a decent tender – a  minimum of 10ft and a decent outboard. Even then you will need to choose your timing when transiting the 1.5 miles from Direction Island to Home Island.  I strongly suggest one takes flares and VHF radio and if at all possible go in a convoy for safety.  Of course you will need to wear a jacket and life vest for your personal safety.

Readers need to understand it is very challenging to stop over at Cocos Keeling and it appears that any rules in place are subject to frequent change, so use your imagination and make your own decision.

It’s Always Windy

The elements at Cocos Keeling present a challenge, it’s always windy with the trades and although the reef takes away the vast majority of the big swell, you still have quite along fetch from the reef to the Direction Island anchorage.

I was looking forward to visiting what are beautiful islands, but because of the additional challenges, I can’t depart quick enough.

Please note that this is written from my personal experience and others may have had a totally different experience.

Mike Peckham
SV White Malkin

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About the Author

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Related Links

• Mini Globe Race 2025

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Other Cocos Keeling Reports

• Indian Ocean Crossing:  A Tough Route But Well Worth It

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