Formalities in Kiribati

Raise the “Q” flag as soon as you enter the Tarawa channel and make sure your country flag is flying.

Entering the channel, we hailed Tarawa Radio on VHF 16.  They organized the officials (Customs, Immigration and Port Authority) to come out to the boat.  I believe they were clearing in a large commercial boat prior to us – otherwise we would have had to collect them from the dock and bring them to the boat.

The officials required the following PRINTED documents, so have them ready for them:

• Three (3) copies of your boat registration
• Three (3) copies of the passport bio page for all crew onboard
• Three (3) copies of the NIL document (see sample included).
  • The NIL document refers to the items you DO NOT have onboard (Guns, ammunition, plants, animals, drugs/morphine, passengers, post & parcels, observers)
  • Stamp with boat stamp if you have one (they love it!)

Customs

Customs is located close to the dinghy landing area in Betio (01°21.530N / 172°55.784E).   Hours: Monday to Friday –  0800 to 1630.  Ph: +686.751.26531.

For all formalities you must call Customs on VHF Channel 16 to schedule clearances.  It is not permitted to go ashore before you have an appointment.  You can also hail Tarawa Radio on VHF 06.

You may try to reach Ivan with Biosecurity at jnineinei@gmail.com.  He may be able to help arrange the various parties.

Officials will visit the yacht upon arrival and issue the cruising permit during the clearance process.

Prior to clearing out, you must pay the port fees at the KPA Office (Port Authority office) and be sure to obtain a receipt.  You will need to present the receipt to Customs who will issue the departure clearance.

Immigration

The Ministry of Immigration and Foreign Affairs website has all of the current immigration information on Kiribati.  Immigration Division: +686.21342 and +686.750.21342, sio@mfa.gov.ki. They are located at Bairiki 01°19.715N / 172°58.659E which is 3.5 miles (one way) from Betio so you will need to take the bus, hitchhike, or rent a car.

To get to immigration in Bairiki by bus, go across the causeway and get off in front of the town square.  With the ANZ Bank on your left, walk down the road on your right, towards the water tower.  You’ll walk past some vendors and across from the water tower you will see a few government offices.  Immigration is the first one.

Passports must be valid for at least six months after arrival.

Biosecurity

Biosecurity went through the entire boat, opened cupboards and closets and  asked how much liquor, tobacco and medications we had onboard. Luckily, we were well within the acceptable limit.  They also asked to see our Covid vaccination records.  We were not asked to pay any fees.

We tried to check in and checkout at the same time as we planned to leave on a Sunday two days after our arrival.  However, they told us that was not possible.

They said there was no overtime fee to clear out on a Sunday so all we had to do was call Tarawa Radio on VHF 16 when we were ready to leave (on Sunday) and the pilot boat would take bring the officials to us.  However, if we decided to clear out on Monday, we would have have to go to ashore and visit their offices – the Customs office first and then Immigration.  So, we cleared out on Sunday with no overtime fees and no issues, it was all super easy.

Port Authority

Port Authority is located on the dock in Betio. (01°21.786N / 172°56.018E).  +686.751.26972. Hours: Monday to Friday from 0830 to 1645.

This is where you pay your anchorage fees. Approximate fee ranges from AUD$30-$50 month while you are anchored in Betio. Save your receipt as you will need to provide it to Customs.

Port Authority answers on VHF 06 and assists with anchoring assignments.

Fees

Clearance is free if done Monday to Friday during normal working hours (0815 to 1615).  After hours on weekdays, the cost is AUD$5 per customs officer per hour.  Weekends the cost is AUD$10 per customs officer per hour.

• Visa extensions can cost AUD$60 per month per visa.
• Port Dues are approximately AUD$50 per month payable upon departure to the KPA Office (Port Authority).  Save the receipt and present it to Customs who will issue the departure clearance.
• Port Dockage Fees to get fuel at the port dock in Kiritimati “Christmas” Island cost AUD$60 (wharf usage fee).

Note:  In March 2025, SV Sugar Shack was not charged fees for clearing out on a Sunday, although the Government website indicates after hours and weekend fees are payable.

The Clearing Out Process

Because we departed on a Sunday, the process was a little different than normal.  We hailed Tarawa Radio on VHF 16 when we were ready to depart.  The officials were clearing out several other fishing boats at the same time.  The pilot boat brought the officials to Sugar Shack.  Customs and Immigration boarded and they stamped us out with no fees (no overtime, no weekend, and no port fees).  We were only there for three days.

They requested copies of the bio-page of all passports, a copy of the NIL document and asked us to make copies of their two customs forms.  The entire process took 15 minutes.

Kiribati Emergencies

The Tunbgaru Central Hospital (TCH)  (Ph +686.731.40050, +686.740.28100) is open 24 hours and is located in Tungaru (south Tarawa) at 01°21.771N / 172°08.335E. The Director of Health Services is Dr. Tekeua Uraim dr_kabtun@yahoo.com.au.

TCH has 120 beds and is Japanese funded.  They offer emergency care, general medical, surgical, obstetrics and gynecology, pediatrics, mental health, laboratory, medical imaging, pharmacy and physiotherapy services.  In addition, there is a dentist at the hospital and it is first come first serve.

The Temakin Clinic is located in Betio.

Aneieta Pharmacy and Medical Clinic is located in Bairiki.

Betio Hospital has completed phase one of construction. Ph:  +686.75126254

World War II Relics

There are also several WWII remnants at Kiribati that can easily be found by walking around Tarawa.

Tuvalu Updates

Funafuti Passes

The North pass is called the Te Ava I Te Lap pass at 08°25.958S / 179°06.265E.    We entered with 8kts of SE winds during an outgoing mid-tide.  We had a 0.5kt of outgoing current with a 1-1.5metre swell also from the SE.  The shallowest spot was 7.8metres deep.  It was a very benign entry but we did have perfect conditions.

The East pass is called the Te Ava Pua Pua pass and is at 08°34.213S / 179°07.467E. This is a straightforward pass but treat with caution in strong SE winds.  If you follow the ship channel into Fonfafale you should avoid all shallow patches.

We departed out of the East pass during low (outgoing) tide. We had very light winds.  The shallowest spot we saw was 14metres.  The pass is wide at 127metres and only has two working green markers (in the same spot).  The red marker and cardinal marker are not there.  It was an easy departure.  The large ships use this pass so give way to them. Open CPN and Navionics were pretty accurate (less the markers).

Anchorages:

Conservation Area – It is forbidden to visit or anchor in the Conservation area without a permit and a guide.  The Conservation area extends along the entire western side of the atoll down to Te Ava Uni-Uni and north toward the Te Ava Tepuka Vili Vili Pass.

It is necessary to visit the Town Council for costs and details of visiting and snorkeling in this area.

08°31.661S / 179°11.322E – in 13m of water with good holding.  Super calm and well protected spot.  However, this is directly downwind from the pig and chicken farm so there is a bit of a smell throughout the day.

They were dredging in this area to reclaim more land.  They had huge mounds of sand, enormous sand bags and lots of work creating the extended shoreline.  The water was incredibly silty making it difficult to see the rudders and make water.

08°31.455S / 179°11.318E  – from this anchorage you can see the large white Government building (Immigration, Health and Biosecurity).  You will need to dinghy about 1/5 mile to the commercial wharf where the Customs office is located.  The water is clear and the bottom is sandy.

Dinghy Landings

08°31.556S / 179°11.565E – leave your dinghy on the beach for a short walk to the government building.

Also 08°31.044S / 179°11.764E – leave dinghy at the sea wall at the small boat harbor and dock.

For Customs, you can leave your dinghy at 08°30.194S / 179°11.716E

08°31.487S / 179°11.549E there is a floating pontoon with a yellow metal ladder to shore.  This leads to a work site, so be sure to stop at the work site office to ask permission to leave your dinghy at this location.

Clearance Formalities

Immigration, Customs, Health and Bio-Security are all located in the three-storey white government building.  Customs is here temporarily while their main office is being renovated. The building can be seen from the anchorage and is at 08°31.468S / 179°11.676E.

We arrived on Good Friday not realizing it was a public holiday.  We stopped into the police station to let them know we were here and they went and collected the Immigration and Custom officials for us at no charge.  We went back the following Monday to clear in with Health, Biosecurity and the Town Council to get the permit to cruise the Tuvalu lagoon.

The Clearance Process

When we arrived in April 2025, the process was pretty straightforward:

The official’s hours are generally from 0900-1230 and 1400-1500.  However, the hours may differ between departments.

1. Immigration – immigration@gov.tv
   • Located in the Government building on the ground floor
   • Complete a form and get passports stamped
   • Immigration asked about alcohol, tobacco and drugs. Limit is 4.5L of wine/beer or 2.250L of spirits per adult.  Limit is less than 200 sticks of cigarettes or less than 250g of tobacco products.
   • Hours: Monday to Friday 0900-1230 and 1400-1500.
2. Customs – tteaukai@gov.tv
   • As of April 2025, Customs was still in their temporary location at the Government building
   • The main office is located on the northern end of the atoll (down at the wharf) which is about a 30-45-minute walk (08°30.097S / 179°11.722E).  Go up a few stairs, then knock on the 3rd door on the right of the north side of the building.
   • You can get duty free fuel certificate on departure, but give them 24–48-hours notice. This will go through the main office but you will need to pick up from their temporary offices in the aforementioned Government building.
   • Hours:  Monday to Thursday 0900-1200 and 1345-1500, Friday 0900-1200 and 1330-1430.
3. Health
   • Government Building, ground floor, north wing
   • Pay a AUD$25-$35 fee
4. Bio-Security
   • Government Building, ground floor, south wing
   • Complete the inspection form

It is recommended to get copies of all of the documents.

Clearing Out Process

We cleared out of Immigration with no problems.  We completed a Passenger Card and they stamped our passports.  Then we cleared out with Customs which took a little longer as we needed them to approve our Request for Duty Free Fuel.  Eventually, they approved our letter, made copies of our documents and provided our departure paperwork. We did not pay any fees.

Permits

It is important to note that there are two different permits.

• Travel to outer atolls
• Travel to outer islands within Funafuti

Both permits are obtained at the Town Council building l near the wharf (09°30.988S / 179°11.944E).

Anchorages Outside of Funafuti Atoll:  You must apply for a permit which requires approval from Customs, Immigration and the local atoll Chief prior to visiting. This can take a few days so be prepared to wait.  Cost is dependent on the atoll and the activities you wish to do.

Anchorages Inside Funafuti Besides the Main Town Anchorage: You are required to alert Town Council of your wish to visit another island in Funafuti.

An Anchorage Fee of AUD$70AUD has to be paid to the cashier on the ground floor of Town Council building.

All islands and areas within the Conservation Area are prohibited.  However, you can get approval to visit the islands on the East side, NE and SE side of the atoll.

Duty Free Fuel

We visited Customs, the day before departing, to request a Duty-Free Fuel Certificate and after much discussion, we were told we needed to write the letter, send to Customs for approval and then they send to Pacific Energy.  Request for Duty Free Fuel Letter – see our sample letter.

We included a boat stamp across the captain’s signature.  We emailed it to tteaukai@gov.tv and also dropped it off on his desk the day before departure.  On the departure date, the Director was nowhere to be found. The Senior person approved, signed, and emailed it to Pacific Energy.  We showed up the next day, our departure day, and Pacific Energy did not receive the request. Lucky for us I had made a copy and handed it to them.

They have huge nozzles on their pumps so we decided to fill a drum and then hand pump from the drum to our jerry cans since we bought 200L/50gal (which is what is in a drum).  The workers are very nice and careful. The drum price was AUD$467.90 and we ended up paying $450.00.  They had to contact Fiji to get the duty-free rate.

Banks and ATMs

There are two ATMs located at the airport building (across from the Government building).  They belong to the National Bank of Tuvalu.  There is an ATM at the bank and also one at Havalavi Restaurant.

The National Bank of Tuvalu has a new location across the runway (008°31.588S / 179°11.714E).  Hours are Monday to Friday from 0900 to 1400. Avoid Thursday and Friday as these are their busiest days.

Tuvalu is primarily a “cash only” location

The best way to exchange money is at MoneyGram (at the bank).

We tried to get money out of the ATMs but it did not recognize our ATM cards (U.S.). So, we went to the bank. Go straight ahead to the Moneygram area / Currency Exchange.  There will most likely be a long line.  They exchanged USD for AUD at a little less than the daily rate ($0.60 vs $0.5596) which we were pleasantly surprised.

Bomb Day

Every year the islanders celebrate Bomb Day, the minimal loss of life and the survival of the WWII bomb. This photo is from the celebrations on April 23, 2025.

Christine Mitchell
SV Sugar Shack

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About the Author

Christine and her partner Matt live aboard their 47′ sailing catamaran, Sugar Shack an owner version Catana 471 which they bought in Turkey in 2010.  After spending many seasons in the Caribbean, they decided to move aboard permanently in 2016 and since then they have been thoroughly enjoying living and sailing around the world.

They have sailed from the Caribbean to Aruba, Bonaire, Curacao then onto Columbia, Panama, through the Panama Canal, Costa Rica, Galapagos, Chile (down the entire country), Robinson Crusoe Island, Easter Island, French Polynesia, Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu, Marshall Islands, Kiribati and Tuvalu.  They are currently in Fiji undertaking repairs and future plans include New Zealand, Australia and Indonesia.

Follow their journey at https://www.svsugarshack.com/

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