Submitted by: Jason Trautz, s/v YOLO (You Only Live Once, life is not a rehearsal)

ARRIVAL DAY/ DATE: Friday, May 29, 2015

ARRIVAL PORT: Port Mathurin, Rodrigues Island, Mauritius

DEPARTURE DAY/DATE: June 9, 2015

DEPARTURE PORT: Port Mathurin, Rodrigues Island, Mauritius

Overview:

About 40,000 people live on Rodrigues, the capital city Port Mathurin is front and centre near the wharf, inexpensive buses can take you to every part of the island, and the first world modern conveniences are a Godsend for many leaving Chagos, the Maldives, and Southeast Asia.

You Are Free To Roam The Country:

After clearing in you can go just about anywhere on the island via bus. Make sure you know when the last bus leaves your distant exploration point for a return trip to Port Mathurin. Many buses leave the far side of the island in the afternoon time period. You can also rent a motorcycle or car for a reasonable price.

Most yachts stay at the wharf or Port Mathurin anchorage. However, the south side of the island does have channels through the reef and anchorages within.

HINT: The Port Captain and Coast Guard get uncomfortable if you anchor outside of the Port Mathurin Bay. Besides, the strong winds, currents, and season the east, south, and west sides of the island would discourage most sailors from visiting these parts of the island with their yacht. The reef area surrounding Rodrigues is larger than the island. A huge amount of water continuously pours over the reef and can only escape via several very swifts running deep water channels.

Language:

English is the official language of the country, spoken by just about everyone. French and Creole (Frenchish) are the languages of choice by the locals.

Agents/Gifts/Payoffs/Considerations/Etc.:

You don’t need an agent to visit Rodrigues. Payoffs are unheard of unless clearing out prior to 0900 during weekdays.

Tourist Office And Maps:

The tourist office is located on the south side of the Regional Assembly Building. It is near the corner of Rue Hatjee Bhai Fatehmamode and Rue De La Solidarite. Walk out the wharf security gate, turn left, walk to the end of the street, enter the RAB complex, turn right, and go to the far building on your left. It is open Monday through Friday 0800 to 1600. The office doesn’t have much since little tourism exists on Rodrigues. However, for less than one USD you can buy a map of the island. Make sure you get the map that also has a diagram of the Port Mathurin streets. There are no free maps, just free brochures.

Importing Yacht Parts:

According to some Customs officials, yacht parts can be imported into Rodrigues duty-free, however, you must pay the local value-added tax (VAT) of 15%. You can apply for a refund for the VAT paid, once you leave the country. This does not make sense to me, but that is what they said. Using logic I tried to work through the reasoning for the VAT tax on a good purchased outside of the country and how a person outside the country would fill out the forms needed for a VAT refund. Customs couldn’t explain the situation, pointed the finger at the officials in Mauritius, and told me to hire an agent to get the VAT refund once I left the country.

FYI, a Customs official stated, “VAT refunds take close to a year to receive.” The manager of DHL clarified things, “You never know what the officials in Mauritius will do when it comes to importing duty or VAT charges.” DHL seemed to be the preferred international carrier and the only one with an agent in town. Some folks just had their items or mail sent to the Post Office and the Post Office notified them via phone when things arrived.

Medical and Dental Care:

Locals AND foreigners get basic free medical and dental care. Call the Health Department at 832-1684 or visit the hospital which is located less than one kilometre east of the market and bus station, just walk east on Rue De La Solidarite, turn right at the cemetery, and walk up the steep road. Or catch a bus up (ask at the kiosk at the bus terminal). Prescriptions filled at the hospital are also free. If you need the skills of a specialist, such as a crown or a root canal for a tooth, you will have to go to a private doctor in Mauritius.

Pharmacy:

There is a pharmacy across the street from the market on Rue de la Solidarite and another one on Julia Street near the church.

Post Office:

It is located one block east of the Tourist Office at the east end of town on Rue De La Solidarite. They provide exact change for the health department fees and also have pay-as- you-surf the web computers.

Bakery:

Heaven awaits! It opens at 0430 and the croissants are gone by 0700. It’s not the best French bakery, but a true relief from many of the past ports-of-call. It is located on Rue Hajee Bhai Fatehmamode, 2.5 blocks south of the wharf. The bakery is open seven days per week and closes at 1630. They also sell bananas and big, fresh eggs. Bananas are often hard to find, so this outlet is welcome here.

Weather:

Almost all cruisers find it a great relief to cool off in Rodrigues after visiting the intense heat and humidity in the countries of southeast Asia, Maldives, and Chagos. After several years in the hot zones, YOLO now has closed hatches at night, a thin sheet covering the sleeping crew, and the refrigerator and freezer aren’t running 24/7. It rains for a day or two every other week.

Currency:

35 Mauritian Rupee (MUR) equals $1.00 US dollar, as of June 2015. Many stores, businesses, and restaurants accept VISA and MasterCard.

Tipping:

In general, tipping seldom occurs and the vendors charge you the same price as the locals. Welcome back to civilization and fair commerce.

Prices:

Most things cost less in Rodrigues when compared to Mauritius. A dinner for two at a good restaurant will set you back $20 to $30 USD. A 2 litre bottle of Coke is $1.35 USD. $22 USD will buy you a case/slab of beer. You can get 6 eggs for about a dollar. Bus fare is less than a dollar. A baguette is less than 15 cents. Ten oranges cost less than 60 cents USD.

Banking:

Good news, the MCB Bank ATMs have low or no fee for making cash withdrawals, when compared to the bandits in SE Asia. Port Mathurin has three banks and at least four ATMs. Walk a few blocks and you are sure to see one on Barclay Street or Rue Max Lucchesi. Many people use SBM Bank which will exchange the top 12 currencies of the world for Mauritian Rupees. They even have an ATM which accepts cash U.S. dollars, British Pounds, or Euros, and gives you back Mauritian Rupees.

Business Hours:

Governmental offices tend to be open Monday through Friday, with some exceptions. They typically close early Friday afternoon. For the most part, the locals start work early, 0630 or 0700 and end the day by 1600. Banks and most businesses close before 1700 and the sun sets soon thereafter. Saturdays are short business days (open in the morning) and most businesses are closed on Sunday. The two big supermarkets tend to be open for some hours every day.

Open Market:

The open market is located at the east end of town and is open Monday through Saturday. It has a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, fish, pork, chicken, goat, mutton, and beef. The widest selection of items is available early Saturday mornings. A mini-market day is Wednesday, but not all the fresh meat providers open on Wednesdays.

Yacht Related Services:

Yachts can find just about any type of support they need, you just have to poke around to find it. The men working on the tug boat, wharf, or in the Port Captain’s office are great sources of information. Rodrigues has engine mechanics, carpenters, fibreglass, cranes, welders, machine shops, outboard repairmen, etc. In June 2015 a forty plus foot sailboat was removed from the water for repairs, via the railway near the wharf.

Garbage Disposal:

The trash cans are located 20 meters outside the wharf area, just outside the security checkpoint. All beer glass bottles have a 55 cent USD (20 rupees) deposit on them, which is refundable upon return. Plastic bags are outlawed in Rodrigues, so bring your own carry bag everywhere you go, even the supermarket.

Wash Water:

At the east end of the large State Trading Corporation warehouse on the wharf is a large water tank with a faucet. Take as much rainwater as you need. Some yachts filtered the water and put it in their drinking tanks in 2015. Many yachts took their buckets and dirty clothes to the tank area and did their wash by hand.

Drinking Water:

If you buy drinking water in 20-litre bottles at a store, it will cost more than diesel. All bottled drinking water is imported from Mauritius. Contact the Port Captain for the delivery of large quantities of drinking water via tanker truck. Locals typically drink rainwater, not the aqua from their taps.

HINT: You will see generic black and white water trucks running all over the island. These trucks provide free drinking water (spring and ocean reverse osmosis) to the homes of the poor people and government buildings. About once a week the water truck will drive on the wharf and fill the water tanks for the wharf buildings. If you ask the driver of the truck, he may run the water hose to the water tanks of yachts tied to the wharf. Make sure the driver does NOT turn on the water pump, let gravity do its a thing; otherwise, you will have a stream of water like a fire hose shooting across your deck.

Port Captain Contact Information:

Yvan Manuel, Capitaine du Port

Work phone: 831-1626

Cell phone: 5988-6111

E-mail: [email protected]

If you are going to have an island guest visit your yacht you must secure a “Guest Pass” for each person. Request the pass at least four hours in advance from the Port Captain Office. It is best to request the pass before 3 p.m. from the ground floor office in the Port Captain’s building. You must meet and greet your guest outside the secured wharf area.

Security:

Not an issue. If you dropped your wallet or cell phone on the street, I’m guessing that it would be returned to you within an hour.

Transportation:

Everything within Port Mathurin is within walking distance. The town is about 6 blocks square.

Buses: Out-of-town buses come and go from the central bus station located at the east end of Port Mathurin on Rue De La Solidarite. The maximum bus fare is less than $1 USD each way. The bus coordinator office is located in the centre of the bus station, and they will direct you to the correct bus for reaching any part of the island. Buses leave the central bus station every 30 or 60 minutes.

Aeroplanes, Autos, and Taxis: There are very few taxis, most are pick-up trucks, and they can typically be found at the central bus station. The airport handles up to 18 flights from Mauritius each week. A quick round trip flight to Mauritius costs about $150 USD. A return Australia trip is about $2,000 USD. A bus to the airport costs less than $1 USD. A taxi, or local, will charge you about $15 USD for the same trip. Most locals own pick-up trucks since they are classified as duty-free farm equipment.

If you want to rent a bike, motorcycle, car, or truck call Ile Aux Coco at 5877-4292, 5877-1342, or 5474-9289 and ask for Marie, Jessika, or Sarah.

Transport/Courier Service:

DHL service is available, see the agent at the southeast corner of town at Rue Max Lucchesi and Johnson Street. You can use them as a mailing address. Call the manager at Rotourco DHL at 5875-8777 for details.

Communications:

Orange – Mauritius Telecom (aka CellPlus/Cell+) appears to be the best wireless cell and data, provider. Ok Wi-Fi, certainly not great, yet better than the other providers. Your Orange plans from Rodrigues are also good in Mauritius. Orange allows you to use your phone as a hot spot, whereas the other provider, EmTel, does not. EmTel customers got frustrated and ended up switching to Orange. The cost for a chip and 5 Gb of data was $31 USD and 1Gb for $9 USD. The Orange store is located across the street from the market place, on the corner of Johnson Street and Rue De La Solidarite. After paying for the chip you have to wait 2 hours for it to be activated, which requires a return visit to the Orange store. NOTE: Wifi Profile changes must be made to use a newly acquired chip in Rodrigues. We had to change “internet” to “orange”. The Orange store is open Monday through Friday 0830 to 1600 and Saturday 0800 to 1200.

Free Internet access is available at the library. Look for the “Celpac” library sign near the bakery on the corner of Rue Hajee Bhai Fatehmamode and Rue De La Solidarite. The library is open Monday through Friday 0900 to 1630 and Saturday 0900 to 1400. Bring you to own a laptop or use one of their desktops. If the kids are out of school expect slow response times. The Post Office also offers Wi-Fi access for a fee. The Orange store described above offers a free hot spot. Ask the Orange sales representative for the password which changes daily.

Country Code: The country code is +230 when dialling long distance.

Laundry:

The woman that cleans the Port Captain offices does laundry out of her home, hand washed, air dried, and folded. If it is sunny, expect next day delivery, after dropping off your items at the Port Captain’s Office. The cost is about $2.80 USD per kilo/2.2 pounds. There is a virtually unlimited amount of wash water available on the wharf for doing your own wash by hand.

Food/Groceries:

You have three major choices and many small convenience shops.

1. The Alimenta Cold Storage is at the east end of town on Rue De La Solidarite, next to the river and across the street from the central bus station.

2. Roussety & Company, which typically has the best prices, is located 2.5 blocks south of the wharf security gate on Rue Pere Gandy.

3. Super Cash which is the largest store, is located in the southwest corner of town next to the fire station, on Rue Pere Gandy. The stores accept credit cards and have the best selection the day the supply ship arrives.

When you purchase beer in glass bottles you pay a 55 cent USD deposit on each item. If you return the empty container to the store and buy another glass bottle of beer, you don’t pay the deposit amount a second time, since you are exchanging bottles. If you simply want your deposit refunded, you must return the empty container(s) and the purchase receipt to the store for a full refund. If you are returning a case of 24 empty beer bottles you will get about $14 USD back. Cans and plastic bottles do not have deposits.

Alcohol:

Most of the grocery and food stores sell wine, beer, and liquor. Roussety & Company has the widest selection. If you want to purchase cases of soft drinks, beer, water, etc. go to Phoenix Beverages Limited. It is located next to the new power plant west of town, which is over the river and along the coastal road. They will deliver large orders to the wharf. You can take your dinghy to Phoenix as an option. The Jenner Store, run by Mr So, has a good selection of alcohol items. Look for his red and white store on the corner of Rue de la Solidarite and Julia Street.

Clocks: UTC +4 is local time in the winter and +5 in the summer.

Fuel:

There is one fuel station and it is located at the west end of town next to the river on Rue Max Lucchesi. Most yachts take their dinghy to the concrete ramp next to the fuel station to save time and work hauling the jerry cans. If you need a significant amount of fuel, contact the port captain and he will arrange for a fuel truck to visit the wharf. Yacht(s) must order a minimum of 1,000 litres to have diesel delivered to the wharf. The truck can then dispense the fuel directly into each boat along the wharf.

Gasoline/petrol, $ .1.30 USD per liter

Diesel, $1.06 USD per litre

Propane is also available at this location. Three multinationals companies supply the gas and bottles, each with their own unique fitting, so plan to have to decant the gas. Or wait until Mauritius where they seem to have greater flexibility and capabilities with filling foreign tanks.

Drop your used motor oil off at the wharf workshop which is located next to the guard shack. With prior permission, the port captain has allowed cruisers to use the commercial tools and workbench in the workshop.

Restaurants:

They are too numerous to list and are located everywhere.

Summary:

With few exceptions, cruiser’s enjoy Rodrigues much more than Mauritius or Reunion. The costs are lower, safety is not an issue, the necessities are close at hand, and the locals are warm and generous. Some say it is like Mauritius was decades ago. Throw into the mix a safe harbour and comfortable weather, and you have NO excuse for passing Rodrigues by. In fact, some yachts now extend their stay in Rodrigues and skip Mauritius and Reunion all together.

Read the Mauritius – Rodrigues Island Clearance Information article on Noonsite for more information.

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