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By No owner — last modified Aug 23, 2018 04:21 PM

 French Polynesia - Marquesas

Marquesas

It is NO LONGER compulsory for all yachts visiting French Polynesia to visit Papeete Customs and Immigration to complete the clearing-in process.

Yachts can now clear in or out of FP with the “gendarmes” offices (French Police) at the ports of entry in the other islands (Marquesas, Tuamotus, Gambiers, Australs etc.) and complete all customs and immigration formalities in the one place.

For full details on clearance into and out of FP go to French Polynesia Formalities.

For details on the location, hours and relevant information relating to the various "gendarmes" offices, see each individual clearance port (marked with an *asterix).

There are three Gendarmerie areas in the Marquesas: Hiva Oa, Ua Pou and Nuku Hiva, and officially boats arriving from overseas should go to one of these islands first.

Boats do however often stop at Fatu Hiva first. Whilst in the past skippers have had problems with the Gendarmerie in Hiva Oa for doing so, cruisers in recent years have reported that yachts were being allowed to stop in Fatu Hiva without any repercussions.

Customs: patrol the islands and in particular Nuku Hiva, boarding as many yachts as possible. They have a list of yachts checked in and have scanned copies of their customs declaration. Officials are reported to be polite but checks could be anything from a quick look around to a very thorough opening of everything (even tapping for hidden compartments). It is important to declare properly what you have on board or you will be fined or have items confiscated. They are looking for arms, alcohol, strong medicine and pearls. Pearls without receipts are confiscated as they are trying to remove poor quality pearls from the market.

A useful source of information about the Marquesas can be found in this report by SV Soggy Paws.

Main Ports

Fatu Hiva

Hakahau (Ua Pou) *

Hiva Oa *

Nuku Hiva *

Tahuata

Ua Huka

* indicates port of entry

Sue Richards
Sue Richards says:
Sep 01, 2018 07:54 PM

Reported by Bob Carlisle:

Tahouna Bay/Atouna, Hiva Oa, Marquesa Islands, July 2018

WARNING OF TEMPORARY ANCHORING RESTRICTIONS:

Probably not too many are heading that way right now, but when the next Pacific crossing season gets up and running, this is one of the main arrival/check-in ports for the Marquesa Islands and space is going to be restricted.
W
hen we visited in July 2018 there were notices posted stating that due to dredging works programmed for mid-July to late-December, the anchorage would be restricted to an area north of the dinghy dock and presumably you'll need to get your anchor & chain behind that line too? That area's predominantly very shallow and I'd estimate that no more than half a dozen yachts will be able to squeeze in there, of which there seems to be four or five semi-permanent yachts already.

Works hadn't begun when we left in August, so it's reasonable to assume that the works will overrun and these restrictions will continue at least into the early months of 2019 when the Puddle Jumpers begin to arrive in numbers. You can anchor off outside the harbour wall, but in all but very light weather with little south in the winds/seas that's an uncomfortable option at best.

Even with 'normal' restrictions in place you'll be twin anchored if you're inside the harbour wall and be wary of the Aranui cruise/supply ship's arrival if anchored close to the dock on the east side (the red Taporo supply ship invariably seems to be a lot more careful and courteous?) Whilst we were sat comfortably 'behind the line' our anchor wasn't and the Aranui first tripped that when dropping their own anchor, before 'blasting' us sideways a few seconds later with their powerful bow thruster as they docked; no gel-coat was lost, so just an interesting experience.

lderamus
lderamus says:
Aug 20, 2018 11:44 PM

We are currently at Marina Taina in Tahiti and can highly recommend Yacht Services Tahiti. Responsive, nice,english speaking and efficient. Worth every penny!

lderamus
lderamus says:
Aug 20, 2018 11:42 PM

Highly recommend making landfall in Nuku Hiva instead of Hiva Oa. Much better anchorage and dinghy dock in Nuku Hiva,shops,fruit and veggie market and small restaurant right near the dock.
kevin and his lovely wife at YACHT SERVICES in Nuku Hiva are absolutely fabulous !! There services are worth every penny and more. They help with check-in, paperwork and pretty much anything you need.

Patrick Erwert
Patrick Erwert says:
Jul 18, 2018 03:44 AM

I first sailed French Polynesia in 1984. Two days after arriving in Papeete, our dingy was stolen. When I went to the gendarmes, the first thing he said was, laisse-moi deviner, ton zodiac a ete vole. Let me guess, your dingy was stolen. Things haven't changed, secure and lock up your valuables. I am headed again there this coming spring and will keep my past experiences in mind. Enjoy this beautiful land and remember to take nothing for granted. Patrick, S/V Voila

chouliha
chouliha says:
May 05, 2018 04:00 PM

Headed towards French Polynesia? Be sure to download the free cruisers guide that lists parts and services available in Papeete. Having the pdf onboard will allow to to order parts and check on services. Hopefully this may help you if you are in the remote islands and something breaks or save you time while sourcing parts in Tahiti. Updated often so be sure to check when internet is available Chuck/ Jacaranda

http://www.tahiticruisersguide.com/

Daniel Baydreamer
Daniel Baydreamer says:
Jan 24, 2018 01:45 AM

If you ever run into mechanical problems or need something done on your boat while you are in Tahiti I can highly recommend a Hungarian guy named: Adrian: 00 689 87286083 email: [email protected] He is a magician when it comes to boats and engines. He changed our head gasket, rebuild our diesel injector pump,mounted our new bow spread and even made a complete overhaul of our dive compressor. He is honest and he defiantly knows what he is doing.

He lives on his boat just outside marina Taina.

Palzur
Palzur says:
Jan 21, 2018 08:01 PM

Before sailing to French Polynesia it is really recommend to join for free the "Pacific Puddle Jump".
They will give you tips, handbooks and other stuff that really helps.

Val Ellis
Val Ellis says:
Dec 20, 2017 10:42 AM

Noonsite has written to the Immigration authority in French Polynesia asking for clarification/confirmation about the 'new' rule. We will update the site as soon as we receive the information.

Val Ellis
Val Ellis says:
Dec 20, 2017 10:39 AM

Posted 20th December 2017 on behalf of Ian and Erika

We left our boat in Papeete, Tahiti for a 6 week trip to New Zealand. Upon our return, at the Auckland airport check-in (Air Tahiti Nui on Dec 14th 2017), I was asked to provide evidence of having a boat in Tahiti. When I queried this, I was told that a ‘New’ regulation had just come in and applied to British EU travellers (but not to my wife, who is German). Fortunately we had copies of Ships Papers (SSR) on us, but I was told I would not have been allowed to fly without proof or evidence of an onward plane ticket, despite the fact that Britain is still in the EU. Apparently, this new regulation is in preparation for Brexit !

Sue Richards
Sue Richards says:
Apr 28, 2017 12:06 PM

Hi Sue - I recommend your post your offer on the Women Who Sail Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/groups/WomenWhoSail/. There seem to be quite alot of followers in the Pacific right now actively cruising and I am sure they can guide you accordingly.

BlueWaterSue
BlueWaterSue says:
Apr 27, 2017 07:25 AM

I'll be flying from San Francisco, California into Pape'ete for a short week visit in mid-May and I'm wondering what I could bring to cruisers in the way of useful supplies. I hear things are expensive there, and I know from personal cruising experience that specialty repair items can be hard to source abroad. Any ideas for finding requests?

Pannikin
Pannikin says:
Apr 14, 2017 12:21 AM

Marine Surveyor in Tahiti.
If anyone is looking for a marine surveyor in Tahiti I am happy to relay our experience with Patrice BEUSCHER.
We found Mr Beuscher to be very professional, prompt, reliable and honest. He surveyed out boat for purchase and was meticulous with a keen eye for detail and always replied to any query we had promptly and efficiently.

John Freeland
John Freeland says:
Feb 14, 2017 12:08 AM

Fact or Myth: Food in French Polynesia is exorbitantly expensive

While in Panama several permanent sailing residents repeated the often heard tale of woe about Polynesia. “Why would you go to Polynesia, it so dreadfully expensive?” I would usually say "well when I was in French Polynesia 20 years ago many items were price controlled and very reasonable. If you’re on a tight budget you can eat cheaply if you’re careful."
Currently we found many of the Marquesas and Tuomotus were supplied regularly. Staples are rarely an issue, fresh is often available the day the freighter arrives. Locally sourced foods, like mangoes and grapefruit, are not sold in stores but can be found by a bit of asking around.
But are the prices exorbitantly expensive? In a word – No.
We’re from the UK where food prices are similar to the rest of Europe. There are several comparison websites which use the “shopping basket” comparison to measure cost of living and between city comparisons. Using February 2017 here are average UK prices converted to French Polynesian Francs, compared to the Champion Supermarket in Papeete (which by the way is certainly not the cheapest.)
I have converted the British pounds to French Polynesian francs at the current rate of 140.

UK vs Tahiti Prices - Feb 2017 UK in XPF Papeete
Milk , (1 liter); Papeete presidente whole milk HDT XPF 123 XPF 139
Loaf of Fresh White Bread (500g) Papeete for 2 bagettes XPF 132 XPF 124
Rice (white), (1kg) XPF 168 XPF 97
Eggs (12) XPF 269 XPF 451
Cheese (1kg); Papeete Emmental XPF 783 XPF 995
Chicken Breasts (Boneless, Skinless), (1kg): Papeete frozen XPF 843 XPF 292
Beef Round (1kg) XPF 1,092 XPF 1,395
Apples (1kg) XPF 252 XPF 372
Banana (1kg) XPF 134 XPF 140
Oranges (1kg) XPF 239 XPF 345
Tomato (1kg) XPF 255 XPF 720
Potato (1kg) XPF 167 XPF 167
Onion (1kg) XPF 132 XPF 165
Lettuce (1 head) ;only cleaned bagged Papeete XPF 99 XPF 368
Total basket XPF 4,687 XPF 5,769
Papeete is 23% more expensive than UK.

French Polynesia is arguably one of the most isolated nations on the planet and it would be a surprise if food was cheap. Papeete is an expensive city by third world standards where 2 bedroom flats start at 200,000 euros. Shipping food by freighter in refrigerated containers also raises the prices in the outlying archipelagos. Nevertheless, with some staples price controlled by France, many staples are quite reasonable. Try to get a baguette in London for 44 pence, 54 cents US.
Is food more expensive than Europe or USA? Yes. Is it exorbitantly expensive? I’d answer that question with a resounding – NO.

John Freeland - SY Mary Ann II

stefandec
stefandec says:
Jul 28, 2016 09:24 PM

Nuku Hiva Yacht Services recommedation
I spent a couple of hours with Kevin of NHYS last June 2016 and can recommend him to other cruisers as a friendly, capable, generous and serious person. I recomend them to fellow cruisers, Stefan (Svsanuk.com)

stage2man
stage2man says:
Apr 14, 2016 08:57 PM

In 2015, Customs patrols of Fatu Hiva were not tolerating vessels that had not prior checked in to the country at either Nuka Hiva or Hiva Oa. Additionally for those who had applied for a long stay Visa prior to leaving the USA, the paper work now takes 7 weeks, after submission to Papeete, upon arrival in French Polynesia. Anne-Marie Guiguen(some English), is a delightful official on Nuka Hiva who assisted us with submission to Papeete. Given the now prolonged time to process, I think she may be not be as helpful to future cruisers, and may suggest heading to Papeete early enough to submit the paperwork yourself. We were not allowed to leave the Marquesas until our papers were returned from Papeete to her office.

stage2man
stage2man says:
Apr 14, 2016 08:31 PM

Warning on alcohol reporting to Customs. Customs is back in business utilizing the Navy vessel after losing their's on a reef. When reporting alcohol to the Gendarmes on arrival in the Marquesas, be accurate. Do not under report stores or Customs will assume your intention is to sell the excess alcohol to the local population. You will be fined, and have alcohol confiscated. Note that there is no maximum that one can bring into the country. We know of a vessel that had over 1000 cans of beer on board, yet had no problems because they declared all upon arrival with the Gendarmes. Note that they want the quantity in Liters, not cases or bottles. They told us a case to them is 6 bottles of wine. Hence we had inadvertently under reported as the rest of the world counts 12 bottles in a case. They also check all medication and controlled substances when searching a vessel for patient names on labels.

Sue Richards
Sue Richards says:
Dec 09, 2015 12:13 PM

Posted on behalf of Bill, Lara and Isobel Calfee of SV Sunrise:
I thought it would be worth writing about our experience with Tahiti Crew. We picked them up as an agent via the Pacific Puddle Jump.

Tehani is a local woman who owns the company and is the primary contact in Tahiti. She has remote island contacts and I suggest that you deal directly with her by phone, text (689 87 21 59 80 ) or email ([email protected]). She has been wonderfully responsive and has helped us with many things beyond customs and immigration: car rental, tax fee fuel, making medical appointments, importing parts, hiring local contractors, finding places to stay, guided tours of the island (her “auntie” has a pHd in Tahitian Culture and leads tours of the island). We are traveling with our 6 year old daughter and Tehani helped us work our way through the system to put her in the local school!! She also knows the local customs and culture. Tahiti crew does charge fees for many things that can be done on your own… and we feel strongly that Tahiti Crew is a great value.

As a side bar: all Tahitians expect to be treated as friends would treat each other, with kindness and respect. We found people in Tahiti and Moorea to be very kind and generous if you treat them as friends. Of course, the more densely touristed the area, the more you will have to work to become friends. Attempting to speak french will go a long way. And attempting to use a few Tahitian words makes a huge difference as these people are Polynesians, not French!

lifelineexplorers
lifelineexplorers says:
Nov 22, 2015 08:50 AM

For anyone needing assistance with formalities or customs clearance I would highly recommend using Tehani at Tahiti Crew. She helped me clear into Polynesia, dealt with arriving packages being held at Customs, and assisted in acquiring two visa extensions. Her service was beyond was expected and she is extremely professional and pleasant to deal with. She can be contact at [email protected]

David Johnson
David Johnson says:
Jul 11, 2015 08:33 PM

Couple of recommended services in French Polynesia.
1. PSA (listed under Tahiti marine services) for batteries. Great service, batteries delivered to boat, and good after sales support.
2. Voilerie Aveia (Regine Faux, 68987725112) in Raiatea for sail repairs. We got next day turnaround on 2 separate repairs. Collected and returned sails, nice repairs completed.

Sue Richards
Sue Richards says:
Jun 11, 2015 11:34 AM

The cruiser who sent us this security report prefers to remain anonymous:

We are currently cruising French Polynesia and have throughly enjoyed every minute. We are passing through Raiatea for the second time.

I want to report three cases of boats being boarded in the last two weeks in Uturoa on the town public dock. We are still cruising here and want to make sure fellow cruisers are aware of petty crime here.

The first incident happened two weeks ago to a friend's boat tied up close to the Shell Gas Station. His boat along with three others were boarded at night and various items were stolen. All three boats were unlocked. The perpetrator was maced and fled leaving various items behind.

We pulled back into the public dock today to re-provision and met two Australian boats that were boarded last night with a Laptop stolen with forceful entry and the perpetrator being chased off a second boat when the owner was awoken.

Local recommendations are NOT to tie up here over night but anchor off the town or pick up a mooring ball over night. Our suggestion is to go to Taha'a and pick up a moring ball by the old yacht club and spend the night there.

Sue Richards
Sue Richards says:
Apr 27, 2015 09:40 AM

Posted on Women Who Sail Facebook Group - April 25th, 2015
DINGHY THEFT ALERT.... another dinghy stolen last night in Bora Bora. Boat was at a mooring in front of the gas station, not far from the Mai Kai Marina... there's been a rash of thefts in Huahine, Raiatea and Bora Bora... as always, LOCK IT OR LOSE IT!

Sue Richards
Sue Richards says:
Jul 14, 2014 01:07 PM

It has been reported that the customs boat hit a reef in the Tuamotos - and it may be a while before a new one arrives.

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