Reports to Consider if Planning a Cruise to Haiti

Created by sue. Last modified on 2010-06-08 09:02:57
Contributors:
Countries: Haiti

The first report was posted on 28th January 2010. See second report below posted 20th May 2010 by Frank Virgintino, author of the DR Cruising Guide.

First Report sent by Tom
S/Y karaka
http://karaka.site.voila.fr/

I have some recent info. that might be of use (Tom was in Haiti during the January 2010 earthquake).

The south west coast of Haiti, even in normal times, is extremely dangerous and should be given a wide berth. Boats who stoped there for a rest have been looted and gruesome stories of rape and beating have happened. Anywhere from Cape Tiburon to Cape Carrefour is a no-go-zone.

The story goes that drug running is big in the area and that the locals assume any boats anchoring in the area are loaded with drugs or dollars and that looting them is fair game. When they fail to find either cash or drugs, they get mad. The stories I've heard were about people anchoring for the night because the conditions were rough and being boarded in the middle of the night by a crowd of armed people. Under the current situation it can only be worse in the area.

The pass between Ile a Vache and the mainland on the west of Ile a Vache is a fishing ground. There are countless lobster pots scattered everywhere, marked only with small 1/2 litre plastic bottles. A good watch is necessary when sailing in. When we entered there was alot of small fishing sail boats in the area, retrieving their pots, and as not all come from the friendly Ile a Vache, all should be given a wide berth (although they will invariably attempt to come close and ask for stuff). I would not advise boats to let them come close under the current situation.

Rounding the northwest point of Ile a Vache to enter the anchorage, the waters are shallow and special care should be taken to avoid isolated coral heads. As the anchorage is entered, the reef is treacherous and boats should stay well on the east side. Dugouts will rush to you as soon as you come in sight, they are friendly people from Caye Coq and will offer you assistance in entering and anchoring.

Boats get a lot of attention in Port Morgan, and all day there is a stream of visitors, offering services, food for sale, giving advice, asking for favors or just being curious. Being friendly with the locals pays, they are wonderful people and will make your stay unforgetable.

The anchorage in Caye Coq near the resort of Ile a Vache is not a good holding and is completely exposed in case of a norther, but is very good in normal times. The safe alternative is Port Morgan itself, a small inlet with good holding and hurricane proof protection. I don't have the way points here but they are obvious on a chart. The Port Morgan anchorage has a 4m entrance and is rather small, with a few moorings installed but no berths.

The clearance procedure might have changed with the current situation, but when we were there during the earthquake (January 2010), the captain had to travel to Les Cayes by ferry to check in with immigration. There was no need to check in with any other officials such as customs or quarantine. The costs were 20 dollars US per person to have the passports stamped in and out (10 dollars each way). The duration of the visa is flexible, we're told there's no limits as long as you've got deep pockets...

If the boat stays less than about a week or ten days, the immigration clearance can be done only one time, in and out the same day, thus avoiding another trip to Les Cayes. The trip can be wet and uncomfortable if the wind is blowing. Locals from Caye Coq usually offer to do it for you but I wouldn't reccomend to give your passports to anybody to take them to the main land... you can easily get friends to accompany you if you are uncomfortable going on your own. For short stays, clearing in is not necessary (but that's unofficial).

The town of Les Cayes suffered only minor destruction (during the January 2010 earthquake) and the only problems there at the moment are the afflux of refugees and the chronic lack of supplies. Things are reported to go on as before in the town.

Hope this helps.

Received from Frank Virgintino on 20th May 2010.

Ile a Vache – A second Opinion

Having recently visited Haiti, and cruised there extensively over the years, I feel that the above report by Tom of Karaka is filled with inaccuracies which I would like to comment on.

The Noonsite homepage for Haiti recommends not to land anywhere in Haiti at this time due to the extreme condtions that one finds there and which causes people to overrun your boat. I would agree with this.

However, it's important to note that this is not the case with Isle a Vache, which is at the SW corner of Haiti. This island is safe, very safe. I have been there more than 15 times and the island, the people, the French hotel and the open market are all wonderful. So Tom's comment that the SW coast of Haiti is extremely dangerous is not so in all regards.

Moreover, I know of no major movement of drugs through that area, or Haitians that will come out and attack your boat in a pirogue with an engine, as virtually none of the Haitians have engines. The boats they have are essentially canoes that are paddled, and sailboats that are sailed to fish pots and that do fishing.

I think perhaps Tom visited a different Isle a Vache than I did. Isle a Vache is best approached from the west. There are fish pots and lobster pots but not so many as to make it cumbersome to approach. Haitian sailing vessels are out tending their traps, but they do not approach you. Quite the contrary, my experience is that they bear off. I know of no incidents with a hostile Haitian fish boat whether they are from Isle a Vache or Les Cayes, which is right across on the mainland.

He says that the anchorage is not good holding at Caye Coq (I think he means Baie a Feret). He says this is near the resort of Isle a Vache (I think he means the Port Morgan Hotel) and that it is open to northerlies and that one should do better to anchor in the Port Morgan cove. It is the Port Morgan cove that is close to the hotel, not the "Caye". Moreover, the Baie a Feret and the Port Morgan cove are the same body of water except for a small spit of land. The holding ground is not poor as he says, it is excellent throughout the Baie.

As to northerlies, the Baie of Feret is protected by the mainland and Northerly winds have very little impact. In a very strong one, the cove would not offer any more protection than the small bay.

Tom's comments about drug running and the looting by locals of any boats at anchor is sheer nonsense. Haitians have enough problems without second hand gossip being passed on. I know of no boat that has ever been boarded in the sense that he states, by supposed drug dealers.

Boats that do anchor at the mainland are often overrun with people pushing to get something, which is why it is best to avoid going into any harbor in Haiti with the exception of Isle a Vache.

Lastly, as to the comment "Rounding the northwest point of Ile a Vache to enter the anchorage, the waters are shallow and special care should be taken to avoid isolated coral heads. As the anchorage is entered, the reef is treacherous and boats should stay well on the east side." There are no "isolated coral heads" that I know of on the SW approach to Isle a Vache. As to the "treacherous reef" I do not know of its existence. There is a shoal coming into the Baie de Feret on the east side and this is what I think he is referring to.

The people of Isle a Vache rely heavily on sailboats to boost their meager income. The island has no electricity, cars etc. It is the only place in Haiti that can really be called on safely by cruising boats. His comments are so muddled as to create the wrong impression and I want to clarify it, because the people there have worked hard to maintain a safe environment.

Best Regards
Frank

NOTE: The Cruising Guide to the DR includes Isle a Vache at the SW corner of Haiti.