Clearing into Madagascar - Latest News

Created by webmaster. Last modified on 2002-09-05 13:47:06
Contributors: Tom Mueller, yacht MIZMAE
Countries: Madagascar

Realizing that many things have changed in Madagascar since last years boats arrived in Nosy Bee, we can confirm the following facts:

Diego Suarez, also called Antsiranana, is very unsafe for boats and the watchmen one is supposed to hire, are sometimes part of well-organized crime schemes. The town is unsafe too, especially after dark, if you don't know your way around.

Supplies are more limited than one would expect. The market though is good, not too expensive (Australian or NZ rates) and people are friendly. Meat is best obtained early in the morning directly from the slaughterhouse unless you are happy to buy on the market what the flies have visited before you.

The German York Pareik is here in Antsiranana since 8 years, married to his lovely local wife Lydia, they own together the King's Lodge Hotel and the Car Rental company "King de la Piste". He arranges tours to most of the local nature reserves with safe and proper transportation. Tel 00261 2082-22599, Fax 00261 2082-23560, infoking@dts.mg

You can even anchor your yacht outside his lodge in the very SW corner of the large Diego Bay. York can arrange for a proper watchman and help you organize the procedures of Immigration, Customs, Quarantine and health authorities. But be warned, clearing in at Diego can take up to 5 days.

Diego's second hassle is the bar at the entrance to the huge Bay. Even large commercial container ships have been kept from going out during the tradewind season. The swell builds up very impressively and the only good time to give it a try is very early in the morning. There are very few lights and nav aids working! Clearance costs vary considerably and some yachts were not cleared at all during 2000 as the local authorities did not know how to handle them.

Nosy Bee/Hellville

Much better than its reputation. The only things at risk really are outboard engines. DO NOT leave your tender unattended ! Lock it or lose it!

On arrival you are supposed to see the officials from Immigration and Customs first at the PAF-office on the dock. Also the Vet and Health Officer will meet you there. 1 month visas cost 200.000 Franc Malagasy (FMG), the equivalent of 32 USD/per person. For extensions every passport holder/visa applicant has to go to Diego Suarez exactly on the day of expiry! A hassle which many yachts avoid by visiting Mayotte/French Comoro Isl. for some time.

Another 70.000 FMG for the doctor and the Vet respectively makes the total bill 540.000 FMG (87 USD) at the PAF office. You are then obliged to pay another 124.000 FMG (20 USD) in port fees in the Capitanerie du Port, and you are away. The proceedure takes about 2 hours. Except for the Vet who might come and check your fridge for any pork meat products, none of the officials board the boat.

As the authorities do not have any boats, those boats not yet cleared are hardly ever checked, unless the local gendarme comes out from the village by canoe and reports you to his HQ. In that case you can be sure that some extra fees will come up.

The above mentioned fees are backed up by receipts, however, even the officials let you know quite happily that the 70.000 for the Dr. and the 70.000 for the Vet are nothing but standardized bribes.

Running on Delwyn McPhun's "East African Pilot" we were very apprehensive to meet the infamous Mr. Olivier from the "Service Maritime". It turned out however, that McPhun is very incorrect when stating that Mr.Olivier charges any fees. On the contrary: Mr Olivier states that he has never charged anything for his clearance and will not charge anything in the future either. So there is one worry less and Mr.McPhun's pilot is due for an update concerning Nosy Bee.

Apart from all that the place is very pleasant, a rich variety of people, a colorful market, a french butchers, great bread and email at the "L'Oasis' Cafe and lots of little places to eat.

All the best from Yacht MIZ MAE

Lilly and Tom

30th of July 2001