Palmyra, Line Islands
Published 20 years ago, updated 6 years ago
We had heard that a French sailor, Roger Lextrait, had settled on this island, which is privately owned by a family from Hawaii. The owners have in fact employed Roger, who arrived here on his boat Couscous in 1992, to keep an eye on things and make sure some sailors do not overstay their welcome. The entire atoll has been declared a nature reserve and Roger is doing his best to correct some of the abuses of the past. Roger is the perfect host (if you treat him correctly) and will do his best to make sure you enjoy your stay in this very special place.
As the pass into the lagoon is not easy to identify he has cut a large notch into the palm trees on shore, and this conspicuous V must be brought in line with a white beacon located inside the lagoon, some 100 yards from the shore. By following the range one will avoid all dangers, and the range should not be left until close to the beacon when you can turn right and anchor in approximately 50 ft. By that time Roger will most probably be out in his dory leading you to a safe anchorage. Under no circumstances should the lagoon be entered at night as there are many unmarked dangers just outside the narrow channel.
Roger is leading a truly Robinson Crusoe life on this atoll, where nature is gradually returning things to normal after its thoughtless destruction by the military after the second world war. Diving in the lagoon is excellent, with a profusion of tropical fish, giant mantas, turtles and perhaps too many sharks. On land, the bird’s reign supreme and there are tens of thousands of them everywhere but especially on the former airfield where one can hardly walk without risking stepping on a bird, its eggs or its young. The island was recently purchased by a charitable foundation who intends to turn it into a fully fledged nature reserve.
Roger has now left the island. The nature conservancy which owns the island now maintains control of the main lagoon with caretakers in residence. Reports are that limited short-term (less than 1 week) access is possible for a few boats at a time.
Related to following destinations: Hawaii
I met Roger in 1992 during Hurricane Iniki in Hawaii. We helped save a few boats during the storm. He later sailed to Palmyra. I sailed to Palmyra in December 1993 on route to Pago Pago. I thought I knew Roger while we were tied to the “transit dock” in the ala wai for the better part of 6 months.
The Palmyra life in him surfaced while there in the first year. He turned out to be quite a “freak” Very paranoid and mental. He wanted to know “what my intention was” when I anchored in the lagoon. He said he pulled a gun on a sailor when the sailor’s boat was on the reef. Roger said he was salvaging the boat.
He’s a “screw-ball” and better off elsewhere. I am happy to read he no longer “rules” over the atoll. He should return to the Ala Wai and hook up with Francois or Layla (in Lahaina) Dexter