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Update on Kosrae, Micronesia

By Sue Richards last modified Nov 16, 2011 01:57 PM

Published: 2011-11-16 13:57:53
Countries: Federated States of Micronesia

We spent close to 3 weeks anchored in Lelu Harbour, Kosrae in October 2011.

Mooring

We were anchored in 30 feet, mud bottom between the Church and the Ace Hardware store and experienced a couple of winds sustaining 25 knots from the ESE direction.

The family that operate the Ace Hardware store and reside just to the north of the store invited us to bring our dinghy ashore at their waterfront. We set a dinghy anchor to stern and tied to the telephone type pole near the stone steps.

The Essentials

There was water onshore with a hose at the old concrete commercial pier; however, we only used that water for showers and washing. Kosrae has catchment surface water in the mountains and it is piped to the villages, however the water is not treated nor strained. We do not have a water maker so used our rain catcher fairly successfully.

We asked at the Town Hall across from the same pier if we could put our garbage in the blue garbage truck and received permission to do so.

We bought diesel and gasoline at one of the little fuel stations on the main road which are just roadside stands with fuel in gallon containers! No propane on the island.

Supplies

Supplies are very limited, in fact, for the entire time of our visit there were no eggs on the island. The eggs come on the supply ship and the supply ship is a once per month event.

Come prepared to Kosrae.

There were limited fresh fruit and vegetables. We were able to buy the excellent Kosrae tangerines most days. Some days we could find eggplants and tomatoes. I did buy a large squash but found it inedible. Bananas were plentiful and papayas were scarce.

The family from Ace Hardware stated that they were going to open up a store and include local produce close by Ace Hardware in Lelu village, but that had not happened when we departed in late October.

Getting Around

We hitchhiked often on the island and found Kosraeans to be kind and went out of their way to help us.

Social Scene

We walked or hitchhiked the 2 miles to the Pacific Treelodge Resort operated by the wonderful duo of Mark and Maria. Tuesday night is movie and pizza night. And Friday night was happy hour and mangrove crab or lobster night - all for an affordable price. There is also a small book exchange at the Treelodge and Mark often answered the many queries we posed. On Thursday night Mark does a "sunset cruise" for guests and visitors and kindly stops by the yachts to ask if you would like to join in. As we were the only yacht in Lelu Harbour we appreciated the opportunity to meet with the local expat community - a very small but vital group!

Kosrae rated high on our list of special places even with the supply challenge. We think it is a spot not to be missed in this off-the-beaten-route we have chosen.

Connie McCann
SY SAGE, Victoria, Canada

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