Stopping in Mumbai

Created by sue. Last modified on 2010-02-10 22:10:25
Countries: India

Here is a report on Mumbai. I know some people we have met are planning to sail via here rather than head across the Indian ocean because of Somalia.

We are a British Crew (Anni, Tim & Sam) and have been sailing on a 70’ Catamaran since June 2009.

Stopping in Mumbai

We picked up our present Catamaran in Mumbai in Monsoon season with the intention of reaching Turkey. We required several large jobs done including haul out and engine overhaul.

The Indian people are friendly and welcoming as a whole. They have no real infrastructure for the marine industry, if you require a mooring then the only available spots are the commercial docks and these are very very dirty. The government are also filling these in so this may not be an option in the future. They can haul monohulls here in the right season. Unfortunately raw sewage pipe outlets and crude oil cover the docks. Also expect to see plenty of rats and roaches (usual methods did keep them off the boat thankfully).

As a warning - we were charged $2000 in customs & immigration bills on arrival and due to terror threats at the time (June to Oct 09) you were seldom allowed to have a "shore pass" to leave the dock, and if you were granted a pass then you had a 8pm curfew! If you can anchor in front of the Taj Hotel there are no such problems, however be aware that you may be stung on many various "permissions".

There is an agent called West Coast Marine which are the only company that can source marine items for you (almost all will need to be shipped in which may take weeks even if fed ex). Also expect to pay 25% customs tax on the price that customs "thinks" the item is worth. We ended up paying $400 tax on a bag of O rings! West Coast Marine are not cheap, however did manage our endless paperwork issues and could get fuel, water etc. for us. They have an office at the end of the breakwater about 300m from the Taj Palace hotel and RBYC.

We have Yanmar engines and at present there is no dealer in India, the marine engineers sadly did not know enough to solve the problems. Generally the lack of education and training for the locals is not good so don’t expect technical problems to be solved easily. Also they are unlikely to have tools so you will need to provide them.

Provisioning is very good, try Indigo deli for imported cheese, meats and wines. Big Bazaar (phoenix mall 20 min taxi) for all dry products and country farm butchers behind the Taj hotel for excellent beef and chicken- once you're over the initial shock of the shop (and smell) the prices are excellent and we never suffered dodgy tummies from this food.

Unfortunately I can’t say the same for some of the restaurants! Alcohol is expensive as it has a 110% tax, however if you are in the docks then the duty free at the cruise dock is well priced.

Mumbai is a vibrant city and is an obvious stopping point if you no longer want to cut across the Ocean and risk the pirates. You will need visas already obtained from home before you go. There are also charter boats you can rent, but be aware, our friends did this and suffered many mechanical problems which were on-going issues with the boat before they arrived. They were then expected to pay an additional 14,000 Euros on top of the charter fee before their passports were returned and they could leave (they had hired a 50’ Beneteau for two weeks!).

My general advice would be to stop here and enjoy the city life but not if you require any major works doing, and also be very aware of additional "costs".

Anni