Isla Mujeres to Florida Keys and onto Bahamas

Created by sue. Last modified on 2009-05-21 15:23:07
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Topic: Caribbean Sea
Countries: Mexico, USA

The Passage: Isla Mujeres to Florida Keys

Leaving Isla Mujeres the forecast is for east winds going Southeasterly ideal for heading for our destination the Dry Tortugas, the most western of the Florida Keys. As often happens the promised wind does not quite materialise and we find the best course we can shape is a little north of east and we are pushed north by a strong current as well. We really need to get further east but can ride with it for a while, or that is until we find ourselves being set to the west around the northern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula.

This is not where we want to be, returning to Isla Mujeres is not an easy option against this current so we tack to the east but make slow progress against the swell and wind driven waves. We keep hoping the wind will settle to the Southeast as forecast but it does not. Progress is disappointing and we make only 60 miles towards our destination in the first 24 hours, what had promised to be a fast trip taking advantage of the beginning of the Gulf Stream is turning into a slow beat to windward.

Winds fall light so we tack back towards the northeast and manage to motor-sail more or less towards our destination. Winds sometimes allow us to sail but then fall light and the engine helps again. Eventually dawn comes on our third day and we should be in sight of the Dry Tortugas, the wind has died but no land is in sight. We head towards our waypoint and sail into thick fog, visibility down to less than 100 meters, this is the last thing we expected in warm tropical waters.

Fortunately we are back in the USA and bouys are where they are supposed to be and we see the channel markers appearing out of the fog and we find our way slowly into the anchorage in the lee of the largest Coastal Fort ever built which emerges eerily out of the gloom.

The Dry Tortugas

Fort Jefferson built to guard the entrance to the Gulf of Mexico was built in the mid 1800’s. It was started in the age of canon balls but became obsolete before it was completed when rifled barrels became commonplace firing shells which would blast a breach in the fort walls in no time at all. It served as a prison and a naval coaling station but is now protected as a National park. Interesting to wander around with good views once the fog clears off the surrounding islands.

Bird Island just north of the anchorage is a rookery for Sooty Terns and thousands have arrived for their annual breeding rituals, the air is thick with them as they perform constant “aerobics” and create a constant noise 24 hours a day. Our good weather window comes to an end and another cold front approaches from the north. The weather changes from flat calm to howling wind from the northwest within minutes and the calm anchorage is stirred to a considerable wind chop. Holding however, is good with no swell. It becomes quite crowded as fishing boats come and anchor up to ride out the gale.

We spend 4 days here before the wind shifts to the south allowing us to head west to Key West, which we do overnight arriving with the dawn.

Key West

We anchor in the anchorage to the West of Fleming Island and contact Customs and Immigraton by telephone, they give us a clearance number and we have 24 hours to visit their offices in town. It all proves to be very easy and takes only a short time, a pleasant change after the trials of Central America. Clearing out is even easier, we just have to post back the I95 forms when we leave.

We spend nearly 4 weeks in Key West which is described as a funky town, a tourist destination situated at the end of the overseas highway which connects all the main Florida Keys to the mainland by bridges, the longest being 7 miles in length. Daily there are 2 or 3 cruise ships on the dock and the old town area bustles with tourist activities. The buildings are architecturally interesting and it is a pleasure to wander around as we seek out our needs.

Having spent the last year in the western Caribbean where opportunities to buy spare parts and replacements are almost non-existent, we have a long shopping list but here there is a West Marine and we visit armed with a shopping list. Negotiation of a valuable discount on our large order makes their prices very competitive and George is very helpful and all our needs are supplied within a week with huge savings on the normal shop price. We replace a lot of running rigging, LED lights to reduce power consumption, solar powered vents, engine spares, extra diesel containers, anchor warp and chain, life-sling bag, steering wires the list goes on and on. Then there is food shopping we need to re-provision enough food to last until the Azores as food in the Bahamas and Bermuda will be very expensive with possibly limited choice. We find our way to Wynn Dixie supermarket, which we discover we can reach by dinghy when calm enough and we make several journeys backwards and forwards.

Weather in the Keys

Weather in Key West is an issue with continued weather fronts reaching us from the north and causing the winds to veer around and blow hard for days on end. The anchor holds well but the anchorage becomes very choppy with breaking 2-4 ft waves, going ashore by dinghy is at times impossible and at best a wet experience. Marina berths when available are prohibitively expensive, so on the hook we remain.

We are ready to leave for further up the Keys but the wind continues to blow hard from the east. We try to leave on two occasions but find it is all but impossible to make realistic headway against wind and sea so we return and sit patiently waiting. Eventually weather changes and we enjoy a pleasant sail to Marathon 45 miles to the east stopping off in an anchorage at Bahia Honda a National park for 2 nights long the way.

Marathon

When we arrive in Marathon we find in excess of 200 cruising boats either on moorings or at anchor in the well sheltered harbour. Everything is run by the City Marina and although we anchor for free, use of the dinghy dock which includes showers, internet, book exchange, laundry and weekly pump out of our holding tank costs us $45 a week.

From the Keys to the Bahamas

We are awaiting weather again this time to cross the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas, it is important to get favourable weather here as strong winds contrary to the stream can produce huge and dangerous waves. Other boats are also waiting to leave and we make friends with our near neighbours in the anchorage who are keen to head the same way as well but as this is their first trip are keen to buddy boat.

Eventually the wind looks promising and fully fuelled watered and provisioned we head out into 20-25 knots of wind from the southeast, this moderates overnight and we have a safe if somewhat wet trip across the stream. Going on to the Bahamas banks at South Riding Rocks the difference in sea state is immediate and we enjoy a pleasant daysail, although will not have enough daylight left to reach our destination at Morgans Bluff. So we drop anchor in 4 meters of water and spend the night at anchor in open water, which is fine.

Next morning with virtually no wind we motor in company to Morgans Bluff to complete the entry formalities to the Bahamas. We pay $150 being 34ft, our friends on Diapensia pay $300 being 36ft - hardly seems fair the rate changes at 35ft, but this is one occasion when being on a smaller boat is to our advantage.

Roy and Sue Potter
SY Vindomar