Yachts Gather At Ambrym Island, Vanuatu, For Opening Of "Yacht Club" With Ceremonial "Rom" Dance

Created by doina. Last modified on 2008-01-15 10:25:19
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Countries: Vanuatu

On 17 and 18 October 2007, the crew of seven yachts representing Sweden, Germany, Holland, Belgium, Czechoslovakia, USA, Fiji, and New Zealand were treated to traditional “Rom” dancing by the villagers of Olal, on the north coast of Ambrym Island in the Vanuatu Island chain. The dance celebrated the dedication of a new men’s house (Nakamal) of original Rom design, and the official opening of the village’s “Yacht Club” and Guesthouse. The only way to get to Olal is by sea. The closest best anchorage is at Nebul Bay, (which is not marked on electronic charts, or in the Rocket CD Guide), in 13-20 meters in black sand (16 06.6’ S/ 168 07.7’ E). From the beach there, it is an easy 45 min. walk past several villages to Olal, or a 5-mile dinghy trip best done only in mild conditions. Ask Chief Johnson from Nebul Bay village.

It takes a little effort, but to witness one of their festivals and Rom Dance is definitely worth it. Unique to the Northern region of Ambrym, the Rom dancing truly gave us the feeling of stepping into a living National Geographic magazine. There’s a long complicated cultural significance to the dance. The high Chief decides who can dance. Men pay high prices in pigs and goods for the privilege. Some of the dancers disguised themselves with layers and layers of dry banana leaves and wore elaborate tall conical masks, the design of which is closely guarded by each clan and passed along to initiates who pay. The masks are destroyed after the ceremony, which is why ancient masks that exist in collections are so rare. The other male dancers were clad only in “nambas”, a woven sheath that covers only the penis and is attached to a wide bark belt holding it straight out or erect. Women danced in grass skirts only. The rhythm was primitive and compelling to the deep bass reverberation of a gigantic 3 meter “Tam-Tam” accented by the energetic higher pitched beats of smaller tam-tams and hand-held bamboo models. The dancers sang and chanted and stamped, vibrating the ground around them. This was the first dancing we witnessed where we could believe they were actually dancing the dance for it’s original spiritual purpose, not as a show to entertain tourists. Very powerful. Pigs were killed and the nakamal was revealed with its painted “tiki” guardian, and giant masks.

Back at the YC where burgees and flags donated by yachties gaily flitted on bamboo poles, everyone dived into the abundant “kai-kai” feast with the dancers, villagers, and a govt. official who came for the ceremony. Chief Sekor and his village recognize the great resource that yachties can be to out islanders. Don’t expect cold beer and watching the World Cup finals on the big screen at this YC, as there is no electricity. The Chief is hoping to get a hand-held VHF to contact yachts. A few yachts together can arrange for local meals at the YC, and friendly exchange with the villagers. The not-to-miss events will be the two annual festivals featuring the Rom Dance. In 2008: 21-23 July, the Magic Festival, and around 22 Aug, the Back-to-Your-Roots Festival. Our friends, Pepe and Biancha were the first yachties to be married by the Chief in a symbolic “custom” ceremony. They were dressed in local garb (Pepe wore a grass skirt, not a namba!), and the marriage was a blend of native (giving (not killing) of pigs), and modern (giving of native bead rings, and “unveiling” of the topless bride!)

Jackie Lee and Luc Callebaut S/V “Sloepmouche”