Cochin or Galle? Cruising Report

Created by doina. Last modified on 2007-10-04 15:55:57
Countries: India, Sri Lanka

Report from SY Nicolette of Leigh

We sailed from Aden to Cochi in Sept 06 and stayed there until May 07 heading for Langkawi. Due to technical problems we had to call into Galle and think our experiences of the two ports may be of interest to others sailing this route (east or west).

Our advice is to avoid Galle if at all possible, the fees are steep, the harbour is very uncomfortable - downright dangerous, we did more damage to our boat in 2 weeks there than in 5 years since leaving the UK - and the officials are all out for handouts and make life difficult. You have to carry all goods through the port gate and can be searched, asked for money or drink and it is a long way to walk. The agent is experienced but the authorities can be very unbending and frustrating. Services are poor and workmanship is expensive and shoddy.

This is sad because Sri Lanka is a beautiful island, but the war has led to shortages and to everyone wanting something for nothing. On the other hand we flew to Colombo from Cochi to renew our Indian visas and had an enjoyable 10 day trip. Our advice is to sail to Cochi and visit Sri Lanka by air, if you must.

Cochi, on the other hand was welcoming, with a secure anchorage and a large town, Ernakulam, on the mainland where anything can be found and/or repaired. India takes a bit of getting used to but is fascinating and cheap with great food and fresh produce. Patience is required in most matters but it will pay off.

Although checking in and out is cumbersome it does work and the officials are friendly and helpful. On arrival at the Taj Malabar anchorage you may be approached by local boatmen. We highly recommend one in particular. He will transport you round the officil offices (he also has an auto rickshaw), change money and supply some bread and cold beer (very welcome after 3 weeks at sea). Once checked in he can fill gas bottles, arrange laundry, undertake basic sewing jobs and repairs, take you sightseeing etc. He can be contacted by phone +91 9895164090 (I think) and we found him invaluable. His name is NASAR and his boat is No.72 (P M NASAR).

The Bolgatty Hotel supplies water at a very cheap rate, will act as a poste restante and gives you an address in India for mobile phone connections etc. It is also a welcome retreat from the mayhem of Ernkalum. Cochi Island is a fascinating piece of colonial history and a ferry ride over makes a great day out and lunch stop. There is also the whole of India to explore......

We like India and Cochi in particular and hope that this may encourage some of you to make it a stop over.

Note: YOU MUST HAVE AN INDIAN VISA (valid for 6 months from date of issue and multiple entry) BEFORE ARRIVAL, AVAILABLE FROM BANGKOK, KUALA LUMPA, MALDIVES. We got ours in Cairo and arrived with only 3 months left, hence our trip to Sri Lanka (where you could get your visa, if you must).

Fair winds,

Jane Hill and Paul Lester

SY Nicolette of Leigh