Latest Cruising Report For New Caledonia

Created by doina. Last modified on 2006-08-22 14:41:01
Countries: New Caledonia

The Marina at Port Moselle

The Visitors Pontoon really is just that. At least 95% utilised for visitors only. Arriving at the height of the influx in early June with six yachts the day before and three the day we arrived, there was ample space.We stayed on the pontoon for nearly two weeks to carry out an engine repair and wait for guests to arrive. In the rare event that the pontoon was over full, the unwritten and unspoken policy is FIFO (first in first out). I believe that a potential visitor should feel comfortable knowing that they will be able to secure a berth (first night free) and stay at least a few days in the marina to rest up and re-provision. Incidentally, it may be worth noting that the Customs and Immigration officials were extremely friendly and helpful and most tolerant of any language difficulties. The same can be said for the management and staff of Port Moselle. Really, a warm welcome and very delightful stay. For our Ovni 435, the cost was FPF 1877 per day including taxes.

Clearing Out

While there are several Ports of Entry in New Caledonia and therefore, in theory, several ports of clearance, the reality is that Immigration demands that the skipper return with the passports of skipper and crew to Noumea to carry out final immigration clearance a day or two before you depart. This can mean a long bus trip or an expensive flight. The yacht can remain at the designated port of entry. This complication probably explains why we saw only one other international cruising yacht once we left the Isle of Pines to cruise the Northern Lagoon via Ouvea and Beautemps Beaupre.

Fortunately, we found an agent operating in Port Moselle out of the Jeanneau quay-side booth who was able to secure the agreement of Immigration to clear us from the Marina de Pandop at Koumac on the northwest coast. In addition to avoiding the transportation difficulties, time and cost, it shortened our voyage to one of the reefs in the Coral Sea that we wished to visit on our way to Australia. The agent is Lucie Irola, her company is Latitude 22S and she may be contacted at latitude22s@canl.nc or 687 269919 (Fax/Tel). She charged 5000 FPF for this service which included drafting a letter in French describing our request and providing our itinerary. She then personally visited Immigration and had the person in charge (Major Bourgine Georges) sign the letter which she then returned to me. She stayed in touch during our cruise providing the precise time that we would meet officials. Ms Irola is very professional, speaks fluent English and provides a range of services to visiting yachts She may already be well known among the cruising fraternity but I was not aware that this service was available from my own prior research.

Ms Irola did say that for a yacht that wishes to clear from We, on Lifou, in the Loyalty Islands, there is no option but for the skipper to return to Noumea with passports for immigration clearance. Did we get special treatment? Possibly. The marina staff indicated that it was highly unusual which we took to mean - never happened before. We noted a cruise ship entering the pass at the northwest end of New Caledonia the day we departed. It is possible that Immigration officials needed to be in the area to clear this ship in and we had happened to pick a time to depart coincident with their arrival?

The Marina de Pandop, Koumac

A very small manmade harbour and in this case, the Visitors' Pontoon was occupied with full time residents. The reason for this is that they get one visitor about every two months. There were a few berths available but these were difficult to enter and exit after about 9 AM when the trade wind funnels in at considerable strength. The Harbour Master, Mr Jean Paul Dupre, had us anchor outside under the lee of Point Pandop and wait until the next day to enter the marina when the wind dropped. Mr. Dupre and his lovely wife are wonderful hosts, but beware, not a word of English will be spoken. There are showers, laundry facilities and internet access. There is also a long walk to Koumac town for provisions. Everything is available from several supermarkets, a high quality butcher and bakery.

Jim Patek, s/v Let's Go!