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Docking In Papeete: 2007 Update

Created by doina. Last modified on 2007-09-24 09:43:48
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Countries: French Polynesia

More good news and bad about dockage at the main quay in downtown Papeete (as of May 2007)- there is now better security, with guards seemingly patrolling the quay 24/7. However, costs have risen, to about $60 per night for the average cruising boat. The result is that hardly any boats tie up at the quay, and those that do stay only for a day or two. Also, as there is plenty of vacant space, most boats no longer stern tie, but tie alongside with plenty of fenders. The tidal range is minimal- only a foot or so.

As in the past, plenty of free anchorage is still available just past the Papeete airport, near Marina Taina. John Hurlburt

As has been the case for decades, mooring stern-to is available right in the centre of downtown Papeete at the city docks. The good news... It is exceptionally convenient for shopping and city sites, and the sea wall is well equipped with bollards and power connecters, and is in good repair. Rubbish is collected from right next to your boat, although there is a charge. The whole waterfront is rather attractive and you see all the megayachts, ferries and cargo ships coming in and out. It is very calm at night.

The bad news... Security is the number one problem. There are youths who obviously don't like westerners and think that any property they can grab is theirs by right. I complained to the Port Captain who shrugged and said it was difficult. This useless response was only equalled by the Gendarmes who said much the same thing. We never saw a gendarme patrol by in 2 weeks. You can make a problem unlikely by making sure your stern is well away from the dock at night, and by not leaving anything on the dock.

The second major problem is the chain that stretches across the harbour parallel to the berths. This was apparently once used by the fishing boats that previously used the area, but is in the perfect position to catch your bow anchor. The Port Captain will help with a diver, Monday to Friday, and apparently if you argue, it might even be free, but that is no substitute for removing the offending chain. Overall, and despite these problems, I recommend a visit, but pull yourself away from the dock at night or if you leave the boat for long (I used my dinghy as a ferry) and buoy your anchor with a tripping line. It is, however, very convenient for customs, immigration and the Port Captain who are all in the same building next to the dock.

Otherwise, you don't have to go into Papeete at all, as there is a very good anchorage 5 miles away at Taina where there is also WiFi and the largest supermarket on the island (Carrefour) with the Taina marina having laundry and dinghy dock. Most people go there. During our current stay there must be over a hundred yachts at Taina, whilst the dock in Papeete has perhaps 5-15. You can always get a bus into town from Taina.

Arni Highfield

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