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Noonsite Ports Of The Month: Balboa and Colon, Panama
Created by
doina.
Last modified on 2006-02-07 12:31:47
To say that Panama is a two-port country is to state the obvious. Since most boats, of all types, come to Panama to pass through the Panama Canal all of those vessels will visit or at least pass through the ports of Colon and Balboa. The Panama Canal Authority (ACP in Spanish) maintains a 24/7 contact with vessels in Panama Canal waters on Channel 12, vessels of all types over 65 feet (20 meters) are required to check in with either "Cristobal Signal" when arriving in the port of Colon or with "Flamenco Signal" when arriving in Balboa. All boats should maintain a watch on Channel 12 when operating in Panama Canal Waters. Unlike most areas, The ACP has its own rules and there are few situations where a cruising boat has the right of way. It is safest to assume that you don't have the right of way and keep clear of everyone and observe the other rules of the road. Arriving in Colon there are now two entrance channels: the main ship channel and the new well marked opening in the breakwater a half mile west of Punta Margarita. A word of CAUTION; when entering the Main Ship Channel entrance in limited visibility note that the light marking the eastern end of the Western Breakwater has recently been moved and is NOT at the end of the breakwater but a few hundred feet to the west, a cruiser recently put his boat high up on the breakwater. Once inside the breakwater there are only three places to go: Anchorage area F, known as "The Flats" at N9° 20.5', W79° 54.7', Panama Canal Yacht Club at N9° 20.9', W79° 54.2' or the new Shelter Bay Marina at N9° 22.2', W79° 57.0'. The normal shipping channels lead to "The Flats" and PCYC, Shelter Bay Marina has an entrance channel that is between the western breakwater and the Hazardous Cargo Anchorage. The first buoy of this channel, green SB 1, is located at N9° 23.16', W 79° 55.4' and then on a course of 238° True to the marina, the channel is over 20 feet deep all the way into the marina. The Panama Canal authorities will get very nervous if you try to enter the Hazardous Cargo Anchorage, keep Channel 12 on, so that they can contact you by radio if they get concerned about your intentions. The holding is fair in The Flats, probably because over the years so many
anchors have plowed up the bottom. You can take your dinghy to PCYC to get
ashore. Panama Canal YC pcyachtclub It is NOT SAFE to walk around Colon anywhere at any time, take a taxi. For checking in and/or arranging a Canal transit agents contact Stanley 6680-7971 handles yachts, Tina McBride 6637-2999 handles yachts and mega yachts. If you prefer to do it yourself there are taxis that hang out around PCYC that can help you. For reprovisioning the El Rey supermarket has two new facilities in or near Colon and so also does the Super 99 market. To give the cook a break there are a couple of options, a Chinese restaurant, El Parque, or a Lebanese restaurant, Grand Café, a new "American, local style" Esclusa and maybe for a very special occasion or out of town guests, the beautiful Meliá Hotel, a 20 minute ride away. Shelter Bay Marina sits in a beautiful protected bay on the edge of a huge park and is quiet and well protected, with new floating docks, modern high-tech showers and self serve laundry. The marina provides land and soon sea transportation to services and shopping. Additional services are coming on line weekly, so check with Shelter Bay or Noonsite for the latest. Balboa - Pacific Approach Arriving at the Pacific Ocean entrance to the Panama Canal the choices on where to moor are limited and at times perhaps uncertain. The traditional stop is to take a mooring at Balboa Yacht Club, N 8° 56.3' W 79°33.4', you can call on VHF Ch 6 to see if one is available, BYC now has free WiFi. Also there is the new Flamenco Marina (officially known as Fuerte Amador Resort & Marina, www.fuerteamador.com) at N 8° 54.8' W 79° 31.3' that sometimes has slips available and a few moorings inside a breakwater. These are the choices that the Panamanian authorities would prefer that you use, but, since they are often full, an anchorage must be found. The authorities would prefer that you anchor at Isla Taboga (N 8° 47.9' W 79° 33.1') but as can be seen from the chart, the anchorage is deep and exposed to the North, the prevailing wind direction during the time when most yachts come to Panama. If you do anchor at Taboga there is a ferry to Balboa to check in, do your provisioning and arrange a transit. The yachts also anchor near "The Causeway" opposite Flamenco Marina at N 8° 54.6' W 79° 31.55' or N 8° 55.1' W 79° 31.7' depending on the prevailing winds and predilections of the authorities. The visiting yachts usually monitor VHF Ch 69. Once moored you can go ashore at Balboa Yacht Club or Flamenco Marina, the authorities frown on yachties scrambling up the rocks. Be sure to check in with immigration, the port captain, etc. An agent that works mainly on the pacific side is Enrique Plummer at 6674-2086, Tina McBride also works this side, 6637-2999 and handles boats small through mega. Provisioning is excellent with many choices, there are modern Rey grocery stores in several locations, Riba Smith has an excellent selection, ask the taxi driver to help you find what you need. Panama is much safer than Colon; you can walk around almost anywhere that seems nice, the rundown sections should be avoided. Almost anything can be found in Panama City just ask around. Boat parts can be found at Abernaty's, Nautipesca and Centro Marino. The Nautipesca near the Flamenco marina has some sailboat parts. Hoses and belts are best purchased at Dimar. Another supplier is Marine Warehouse with basic supplies like bottom paint and batteries and the contacts to order special parts 6696-1554. Entertainment: Panama City is divided into named sections like Bella Vista and Obario and the taxi drivers will know how to find places not by street names but by area. There are hundreds of excellent restaurants in Panama City, El Pomadoro in El Cangrejo for casual Italian with nice outdoor seating. Tre Scalini in the Area Bancaria, near Felix B. Maduro for upscale Italian. Las Pencas on the Causeway is good for fish or for a more Panamanian atmosphere try Mi Ranchito also on the Causeway. For a steak El Gaucho in Bella Vista is good. A special treat is the hangout for the old Panama Canal Zonians, Shamrocks in Balboa for fish, ribs and prime rib (Wednesday evening only). For Continental/Japanese try Shanti in El Cangrejo. The Miramar Intercontinental on the Balboa Ave. malecon offers a sumptuous Sunday brunch. On FM radio try 88.5 for relaxing music, 98.9 for a nice Rock sound and visit the Albrook Mall's Cinemark Theater to go for a movie and stroll. In addition to the more immediate pleasures of the City and the very hospitable Panamanian people, there are many places to visit "in the interior" as locals call any place not in Panama City. There is excellent surfing along the Pacific coast, cool highland delights at El Valle, excellent white water rafting in Chiriqui province. There are also jungle canopy tours, visits to native Indian villages, just check with any local travel agent, and get a good map. Renting a car and driving yourself is a good option but be aware that driving in Panama requires great, great, great care, not too bad in the interior but more difficult in the City. As a last note, many Europeans and North Americans are coming to Panama to retire and live. Included in this group is no small number of yachties (like myself). This residential tourism is concentrated in five of the nicer areas, Panama City, and areas at higher altitudes like El Valle, Altos del Maria, Boquete, and Volcan. These expats have formed social groups that give many opportunities to meet and share experiences, not a cruiser potluck but similar. Check out www.expatsocials.com. Two (or Three) Guide Books for the area: The long time trusted standard: The Panama Guide (Known as "The Green Book") by Nancy and Tom Zydler. New and nicely done: The Panama Cruising Guide by Eric Bauhaus. And then of course there is the: Captain's Guide to Transiting the Panama Canal in a Small Vessel by David Wilson (myself). Dave Wilson Noonsite Regional Editor, Panama |
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