Robinson Crusoe Island – not just for castaways

Created by doina. Last modified on 2005-11-03 14:39:45
Countries: Fiji

Robinson Crusoe Island (Likuri, on the coast of Viti Levu, about 10 miles from Navula Passage) is just like you’d imagine it; a little island with palm trees surrounded by a sandy beach; there’s even Friday (a little black cat rather than a man). It’s filled with backpackers enjoying themselves and most days the resort staff put on an extremely professional Polynesian dance show, either at lunchtime or in the evening. The dancers aren’t all Fijians, they come from other parts of Polynesia as well, so the show incorporates Cook Island and Tahitian dances as well as Fijian. You can see why the sailors on the Bounty loved it and the missionaries banned it. The men also dance with machetes and with flaming torches – very spectacular and you wonder how they don’t do themselves a terrible injury, twirling them round their arms and through their legs. Although it’s a backpacker resort it isn’t just for young people; Kevin’s 71 year old mother visited it with us and thoroughly enjoyed herself – she even wanted to take one of the dancers home with her! The emphasis is on fun, with snorkelling, fishing and kayaking interspersed with coconut tree climbing, childhood favourites like sack and egg and spoon races, crab racing and a nightly kava ceremony for new arrivals. You can join in or just watch from the sidelines, whichever you prefer, but the resort staff make everyone feel equally welcome. There is also a dive centre, Nautilus Dive, run by Tommy and Nadine, who offer PADI courses in German and English and a selection of dives 5–25 minutes away from the resort.

Two of the three partners, Aussies Wayne and Ron, are around most days making sure the resort runs smoothly. Being yachties themselves, they are keen to encourage yachts to visit. You can call Robinson Crusoe on VHF Channel 10 and they will send a boat to lead you through the reefs to the anchorage. Don’t be put off by the 2.7 metre depth shown on the chart as we’ve never found less than 5.6m at any state of the tide. There are plans to install lit channel buoys. On your first visit you will be asked to pay FJD1 to join their yacht club and yacht crews are then welcome to join in the resort activities, use the pool, relax in the comfortable hanging chairs and eat and drink at the resort. They just ask that you don’t use the showers because water is in short supply on the island. If ordered the previous day, Wayne and Ron will arrange to get bread, milk, vegetables and meat from the butcher’s shop owned and run by Ron’s son, who also supplies the meat for the resort. For those homesick for British grub, food is often old favourites like stew; sausages and mash; or even roast beef, roast potatoes and veg. Meal prices are very reasonable, so it’s hardly worth lighting the stove on your boat!

Robinson Crusoe is one of our favourite places in Fiji and well worth a visit.

Kevin and Chris Gooch.