Cruising Notes for US Samoa

Created by doina. Last modified on 2005-10-11 11:35:47
Countries: American Samoa

US Samoa has for many years been a favorite shopping place. Yachts arriving from French Polynesia and Suvarow often run low on fuel, service items and groceries due to the high prices and the limited availability of supplies in above mentioned islands.

US Samoa and Pago Pago harbour is home to a seriously big fishing fleet with all the services surrounding them. You will find almost everything, but it can be hard to locate. The people are extremely friendly, but move at their own speed, and people in a hurry may get irritated by that.

We were here ourselves in 1994 and enjoyed the friendly people helping readily to replenish our supplies. In order to do so again we arrived in the end of August 2005 to Pago Pago (often pronounced Pango Pango) in the middle of the night. Friends had told us there was ample room to anchor in the very western part of the bay over 3-8 meters of muddy, foul ground. We were supposed to call the Port control or Port Capt. At any time of the day on channel 16 or channel 12. Cruisers channel is VHF 68.

Arrival

The Port authorities seem to work from 08.00 hrs to 17.00 hours with a fair bit of a lunch break some time between 12.00 hrs and 14.00 hrs. Though it is absolutely mandatory for every vessel including yachts to get permission from the authorities for every movement in the harbour, we couldn´t reach them outside office hours and even within the advertised hours, the port captain can be hard to reach.

Newly arrived boats are supposed to moor onto an old barge by the so called "customs dock" west of the small boat fishing harbour and right in front of "Sadies" Guesthouse. During our stay many smaller yachts declined the port capt. request to moor here due to the surge entering the harbour. Though we were advised that yachts had to moor on the barge "for safe clearance", we learnt that some customs officers can´t climb over the high walls of the barge, forcing the skipper to do so. There are no cleats or any proper fixtures to tie your mooring lines to on the barge.

Anchorage

Very bad holding. Lots of things including large plastic bags make the mud unreliable anchor ground. Many boats drag especially when squalls come through during the night. Set 2 anchors in a row and sleep better, say the locals. We had 60 Meters of half inch chain and a 90 LBs CQR out in 5 Meters of water and were still dragging twice in 20 kn of wind. Security seems no problem, but we recommend to lock the boat and dinghy when leaving for a period of time.

Clearance

After having cleared with customs, who got alerted by our call to port capt. , you can either wait for immigration to arrive or make your way to the port capt. office at the big , white main building of the port authorities some 2 km east of the customs dock. After having seen the port capt. office on the waterfront side of the building on the 3rd Floor, you may or may not get approached by the health authorities tucked away behind the stairs on the bottom floor. You then follow instructions how to proceed within the building. Another 1 km walk east will bring you to the immigration office at the ground floor of the government building behind the Bank of Hawaii. Allow 3-4 hours for the clearance in total if you are walking. Total cost for an average size yacht about 45 ft is around 75 US clearance fees, "harbour movement" not included.

Laundry and showers Available at fair rate in the building of "The Tool shop" by the customs dock.

Fuel and Water The customs dock where the barge is moored carries a connection for water. Due to a quarrel between various authorities about who is to pay for the water, the connection is unavailable to sailors. The fuel truck used to deliver diesel here, but the dock cannot carry a heavy vehicle any longer. As a result, both fuel and water must be purchased from the fuel dock after prior arrangement. In theory, you are even supposed to get written permission from the port capt. office to go from the anchorage to the fuel dock and back at a cost of 50 US Dollars. Call the fuel dock on VHF ch 16 and speak to a most friendly dock master Mr.Laau. He will give you an approximate slot time to fuel up. Yachts can hardly tie up to the great wharf though and will most likely be parked alongside another fishing boat or small freighter. Mr.Laau runs a smooth operation, the hose was small enough for yachts and the facilities were spotless! Good water at 1,45 USD per ton and 2,13 USD/US Gallon for diesel. Engine oil only available from their main storage and office. At the dock you must pay cash or see the main office for credit card payment.

General supplies There are three most important shops right on the customs wharf. These hardware shops supply autoparts, engine service components, tools, hydraulic services and can help to source a lot of other equipment. Everybody was most helpful and friendly.

There are two small workshops on the waterfront of the building for small repairs and electrical work, even rewinding of electrical motors. Only 100 meters away is a well sorted liquor shop and a gas station for gasoline and diesel in jerry cans. On the other side of the road is SADIES, an excellent restaurant and guesthouse who will rent you a fair sized car for 65 US/day. Walking distance to various restaurants and bars from here, including a very nice Chinese one upstairs from the mentioned hardware shops. Lock your dinghy to the broken down floating dock on the western side of the customs dock.

There are several half sized supermarkets in town and on the way to the airport. The biggest one is all the way by the airport, about 30 min drive by car. "Cost u less" is a bulk market, but sells en detail as well. Sometimes they have transport back for you, check with the manager prior to shopping. There is a fresh food market 2 minute walk east of customs dock. Come early!

Money There is ANZ and Bank of Hawaii to choose from. Changing money is expensive at both of them with 15US/change at the ANZ and 10 US/change at the Bank of Hawaii. The ATM machines are a better price and so much quicker! VISA, Mastercard, Maestro and most others work very well and are widely accepted.

Transport You just have to try the colourful buses going everywhere for between 50 cents and 1 dollar. Shipping of parts by FedEX or DHL very easy. US Samoa is a tax free zone.

Communication TELSTRA communication center is a 5 minute walk from the customs dock in the very center of town by the main post office.

Internet connection by normal modem (no Ethernet) at the Island Business Center upstairs in the old part of down town. Ask for directions and you can bring your own laptop. Very helpful people!

Chandlery No real chandlery in town, but check at the hardware shops or at SOS, Sepp´s or Casamar.

No sail maker. No haul outs.

LPG Cooking gas Available at the eastern side of the harbour mouth. Passing all the way along the fish factories. Too far to walk, but very friendly. No problems with fittings, you can wait for your tank to be filled.

Health All services available at the LBJ Tropical Medicine Center past the Yacht Club and up the hill.

All in all

The authorities are ineffective, expensive and not always easy to find. Any other services are extremely friendly, helpful and there is much more available than one may think at a first glance. The local resident yachts have been most supportive and are your best source of information.

US Samoa is no longer a cheap place to stock up, but you can find good quality and variety if you are prepared to look around. The harbour facilities themselves are atrocious and badly managed. The Port is not as dirty as it used to be but far away from clean and the fish smell can become disturbing for finer noses. It is a noisy, well lit place with generators running and ships rattling 24/7. Pago Pago is not for the faint hearted, but we very much enjoyed our short stay because of the people making it so much worthwhile!

Lilly Vedana, Thomas Müller

Yacht MIZ MAE, September 2005