Vieques - Post Navy Departure Update

Created by doina. Last modified on 2005-04-20 15:14:52
Countries: Puerto Rico

Effective May 1, 2005, the island of Vieques, off the southeast coast of Puerto Rico, will mark its second year anniversary since the final, and complete, departure of the US Navy.

After several decades of Navy occupation, and in more recent years, public protests demanding the termination of live bombing activity, Vieques has settled down into a sleepy Caribbean island. Although, it remains to be seen for how long. Development has begun, tourism is slowly on the rise, and real estate prices are escalating.

Recent articles in several major magazine publications, including Islands, Caribbean Travel & Life, and Gourmet, have sparked the fuse for the almost certain boom in tourism. The new wave of tourist and development activity, with the associated paving over of paradise, may prove to do more damage than the Navy's live bombing!

In the meantime, there currently remains only one large resort, several small bed and breakfast style inns, and a handful of villas. The large expat community here, that has long taken advantage of the presence of the US flag, has created an eclectic assortment of various small shops and gourmet style eateries. The latter has even prompted Gourmet magazine to write an article on Vieques.

Vieques has some of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean, most of which are on the land which the Navy used to occupy. All of the former Navy lands have been turned over to the United States Fish and Wildlife Department which is turning most of Vieques into a refuge. A year ago, many of the most beautiful beaches on the farthest eastern tip of the island were littered with the remains of bombs, missiles, grenade launchers, and ammunition cartridges. However, this has all been cleaned up by now. Either by Fish & Wildlife, or by "shell" hunters seeking souvenirs of a unique nature. These areas remain accessible only by boat, as there are no roads leading into the interior.

Currently, Vieques remains visited by few boats, power or sail. On holiday weekends, some fishing boats and pleasure craft come over from the big island of Puerto Rico. There are two liveaboards, one on the north shore, and one in the small bohemian style village of Esperanza in the south. Both of which are offering day charters to the growing tourist population. It is a very different picture than that of the Virgin Islands only 45 miles to the East.

There are several good anchorages on the south shore, especially, near the east end which the Navy used to occupy. There is also an excellent hurricane hole at Ensenada Honda, which also serves as an excellent place to explore the countless fingers of healthy mangrove inlets and islands. Other excellent snorkelling oppourtunites exist throughout the area. There are a couple of large boats which were sunk by the Navy during their practices that have been adopted by thousands of varied fish and creatures that have turned the wrecks into fish condos!

What all these anchorages offer is extreme solitude in exquisite natural surroundings, which has become a rarity in the Caribbean. If you are looking to provision, you need to drop the hook in Esperanza, where there is a small dock which you can tie the dinghy to. Or, anchor in Sun Bay and dinghy ashore and take the short hike around the bay to Esperanza. In Esperanza, you will find the "green store" which has various limited provisions. In the main "city" of Isabella Segunda, on the north shore, you will find a couple of well-stocked Puerto Rican grocery stores. There is also an air-conditioned truck along the road to Isabella that sells fresh fruits and vegetables. However, you will not find the same extensive variety of fresh produce anywhere in Puerto Rico as in the Lesser Antilles.

The latest edition of the Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands includes a new section on the Spanish Virgin Islands (as they have recently become known), Culebra and Vieques. Additionally, I have found Don Street's Imray-Iolaire charts to be very accurate.

After spending a delightful year in Vieques, my wife and I are casting off on what is to be the start of our Circumnavigation. We are heading down island through the Lesser Antilles (which I have cruised extensively in the past) to Trinidad for the completion of our refit. From there, we are off to the western Caribbean and beyond!

Fairwinds and following seas,

Glen Hurd, s/v Sundance