Morocco's Atlantic Ports: October/November 2004

Created by doina. Last modified on 2004-11-25 12:13:11
Countries: Morocco

Here is a short update on ports along the Atlantic coast of Morocco from October/November 2004.

Casablanca Coming from Gibraltar we wanted to go to Casablanca, but the Port Authority did not give permission to enter the port. They told us that there is no place at all for yachts in Casablanca and that yachts are not welcome, but that we should go to Mohammedia (10 nm north) instead. The marina was pulled down in 1998 and although there are plans for a reconstruction, I was told in Mohammmedia that this was improbable even by 2010.

Mohammedia Despite the reports about Mohammedia as a no go port we sailed to the entrance behind the huge outer breakwater and called the port captain on vhf (CH 16, 11, 10). After several calls I received an answer to a call in French, but communication took place in English however.

First they tried to send me back to Casablanca because the small marina was full, but when I explained that I had an ill person onboard I was allowed to moor next to the tugs in the inner harbour. Officials came to the yacht (but did not board), did the paperwork and were very friendly. Although most officials spoke at least some English, speaking French was a door opener. Formalities took two hours, bakshish was not requested. We were allowed to stay for 24 hours unless we would find a place in the marina.

After a walk to the marina (two poontons with water and electricity and quite good sanitary facilities) it was offered to me that a diver would come the next morning and fix a longer mooring line for me (Oceanis 423). I agreed and entering the marina the next morning, everything was prepared and I was able to secure bow-to to the poonton. Entering should not attempted at spring low-water as the concrete blocks for the moorings lower the depth between the pontoons significantly. However, once moored, drafts up to 2m are ok. They normally take boats up to 12 meters length and 2 meters draft and have four to five visitors berths. If the marina is full, one will be allowed to moor in the commercial port only in an emergency (storm, ill person, engine failure etc.).

Leaving the boat in Mohammedia is absolutely safe, the port is guarded like Fort Knox. The Marina staff is very helpful (fees were 10 Euros a day), there are good toilets/showers next to the pontoons and there is a weather office in the port with a helpful meteorologist. Day trips to Casablanca or further afield are possible by train, just take a "petite taxi" from the port gate to the train station. Mohammedia itself is a big, but poor city.

Safi After two days in Mohammedia we continued south and headed for Safi. Safi is a large port for phosphates and has a huge fishing fleet. Entry is easy even at night, although only the breakwater-head was lit and all other lights were not working. Port control (CH 16) maintains 24 hour radio watch and directed us to a place below the control tower. We were helped with the lines and cleared customs shortly after arrival (a matter of minutes) while police and immigration came next morning (formalities were dealt with in the police car in a few minutes). If you leave your boat you should pay a guardian and inform the port authorities, as you might have to move when a cargo ship arrives (or they will carefully move your boat).

Although there is a controlled port gate, entrance is widely granted as people go to the fishing port.

Safi is a nice, clean city with a fascinating medina, spares for fishing boats are available. Harbor fees are calculated by tons by the port authorities and payable on departure.

General remarks Authorities in Morroco generally were helpful and we were only once asked for bakshish. They ask for it if they want some, it is negotiable. However it is handy to have whisky and cigarrettes to "pay" for small (or even big) services. Speaking French is very helpful as it makes formalities much more easy and essential if one wants to travel overland.

A Morrocan courtesy flag is a must and a real door opener.

Having a ship's stamp (or any other stamp) is very useful as you have to fill in the same papers as a cargo ship.

Customs seemed only to be concerned with arms on board.

Passports are kept at immigration police and a shore pass is normally issued. As they also tend to keep the ship's papers, a copy of them is handy as it satisfies them. Crewlists are helpful and save long sessions of spelling of names, places etc. The list should also contain the job of the person.

Sailing in Morocco is a great experience quite off the beaten track to the Canaries!

Captain Holger Emmel, www.seesegler-ev.de