Papua New Guinea : Profile

Facts

One of the most fascinating countries in the world, Papua New Guinea is definitely best visited by cruising boat. This not only gives one the opportunity to catch a glimpse of life in a society still following ancient ways, but also avoids the lawlessness that has affected the large towns (on the mainland) of this rich, but poorly managed, country. Outside of the main centres life is little changed and by using common sense one should be able to avoid the few hot spots of trouble (see security section below). A cruise in Papua New Guinean waters has been for many people the highlight of their world cruise, and if one chooses one's itinerary carefully it is a country well worth visiting.
Over the years 1989-1997, the Bougainville region - in particular Bougainville Island - suffered great destruction of life and property during a civil war. Since the end of that period there has been a gradual restoration of peace. The region is now self-governing but still a part of PNG, and had an incident free presidential election in 2010. While there are some areas that are still no go (since June 2011, there have been a number of violent incidents in Central and Southern Bougainville), the ports of Kieta and Buka are safe and there are customs in Kieta. Both have well sheltered anchorages and access to provisions.
Nissan Island (part of Bougainville to the north) is spectacular and could benefit greatly from cruisers visiting.
The Royal Papua Yacht Club in Port Moresby has its own secure marina and welcomes visiting yachts. There are a large number of locally owned yachts in Port Moresby, where facilities are generally good.
Rabaul, on New Britain Island, was always a popular spot among cruising yachts, many of whom used to spend the cyclone season in its landlocked harbour, which is the crater of a volcano. In recent years the town has suffered two destructive volcanic eruptions and the latest situation should be checked beforehand. Much of the reconstruction has been completed, but it is doubtful that Rabaul will ever regain its former popularity among cruising sailors.
Madang on the northern coast of New Guinea also has a well-protected harbour in an area scattered with islands, reefs and lagoons. It has always been a popular stop, especially for those yachts taking the route north of New Guinea towards Indonesia (see Security below).
The best cruising in Papua New Guinea is found among the many islands to the east of the main island, where islanders still live a peaceful life and sail large traditional canoes for fishing and trading voyages.
Facilities in the smaller towns and outer islands are often basic. There are small boatyards with their own slipways dotted about the country, so one is never too far away should the need arise for some emergency repair. However, all essential spares should be carried on board and one should also provision the boat in one of the major centres before sailing to the islands, where little except a few locally grown vegetables is available.
Situated in the centre of the Asia-Pacific region, surrounded by the Coral, Bismarck and Solomon Seas, whose constant movements feed and enrich the marine environment, PNG has twice as many marine species as the waters of the Red Sea and an estimated 10 times as many as the Caribbean. Its diving has been rated the Top Dive Destination in the World in Rodale’s Scuba Diving Readers Choice Awards.

In recent years, the violence and unrest on the mainland appears to have spread to some of the previously untouched, outlying islands. Some of the areas where cruisers have experienced crime towards yachts are detailed below, and in the main these do tend to be armed and violent. There are however a great many cruisers who spend time in PNG with no problems at all. Always check the current situation before planning an itineray for PNG (see noonsite piracy reports for a history of security reports from cruisers.)

It is strongly advised that yachts avoid the Manus area (Admiralty Group) as yachts visiting in September 2011 experienced threatening behaviour from local "officials" (see report adjacent).

Vessels travelling East from Jayapura in West Papua into Papua New Guinea should note that safe opportunities for refuelling are very limited until Kavieng in New Ireland, some 670 nautical miles from Jayapura.

Safe anchorage can be found in a number of locations in New Ireland and New Britain. In Kavieng, New Ireland, anchorage off the Nusa Island Retreat on Nusalik Island provides a secure base. In New Britain, local advice remains that anchorage at Rabaul cannot be recommended, but in Kokopo, from which Rabaul can be accessed by bus, safe anchorage can be found off the Rapopo Resort. The Duke of York Islands, close to Kokopo, have several good anchorages, with local villagers keen to ensure the safety of their island group for travelling yachts.

Port Moresby and Lae have been particularly affected by the surge in criminality; however, the area around the yacht club in Port Moresby is relatively trouble-free.

Madang on the northern coast of New Guinea, a popular stop with cruisers on their way to Indonesia, is now reported to have increasing security problems similar to those afflicting Lae and Port Moresby.

Theft from yachts is increasingly a risk on the islands East of the main island. Local knowledge and basic safety precautions are necessary.

The best way to find out about changing conditions is to listen to the news, both Radio Australia and Radio New Zealand having good Overseas Services for the Pacific area, or by contacting one's high commission or embassy in Port Moresby, who are usually well informed.

Last updated October 2011.

Weather

The climate is tropical. From December to March is the north-west monsoon, while the south-east monsoon is from May to December. Only the south-east of the country is affected by tropical cyclones, whose season is from December until March.

The best time for diving is during the dry season, which starts around April/ May and runs until early December.

Papau New Guinea Weather Forecast.